THE TRICKTIONARY
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Ahead of the Class: This is a classic and very difficult hat move in which the player catches the Myachi on the underside of the bill of their hat. Start by throwing the Myachi up in front of you. You want the peak of the throw to be about the same height as your nose.
When the Myachi starts to fall, bend over and follow it down with the bill of your hat. As it reaches about waist level, your hat bill will overtake it and you try to catch it nestled between the underside of your hat bill and your forehead. At the end of the move you'll be hunched over with the top of your head pointing down.
In order to accomplish this trick, you'll have to have a pretty tight hat band. Try adjusting the size of your hat until it barely fits and almost cuts the circulation to your brain. If your hat is too loose it will fall off when the Myachi hits it. (See also Brooksie)
see videoAnkle Breaker: This an extremely difficult move that requires a great deal of flexibility in both ankles. Begin with a stall on the instep of your strong foot, then lay that foot on the ground with the Myachi still on it. To keep the Myachi from sliding, you'll be putting your weight on the outside of your strong ankle.
Now step over the foot with the Myachi on it and as you do, twist the opposing leg inward so that the toe of your weak foot is pointed in, toward the ankle of your strong foot. The goal is to actually touch the shin side of your strong ankle with your weak toe.
As you move into this position, by necessity your plant foot (the one still holding the Myachi) will lift up slightly and cause the Myachi to slide toward the top of the foot. At this point, you should be able to move your weak foot into position to catch the Myachi as it slides off. When you do, step over this foot with your strong foot and balance the Myachi on your opposing instep. (See also Instep Stall; Step Over)
Aqueduct: Start with one Myachi on either hand. Begin the move by tossing the Myachi from your strong hand (right if you're right handed, left if left-handed) in a large Rainbow arc. While it's in the air, you'll swap the Myachi from your weak hand over to your strong hand with a quick Fu and then quickly reach out to catch the Myachi you threw first.
The size of your arc will make a big difference on this move. If you throw too low you won't have time to Fu the 2nd Myachi away and empty the hand. If you throw too high you'll make the catch far more difficult. Ideally you want to throw about level with the top of your head.
see videoArmageddon: This move combines the Illusion, the Vert Catch and the Daredevil to create a striking combo. Begin with a Myachi on either hand. Throw the weak hand Myachi to about eye level and quickly do an Illusion with the other hand, using centrifugal force to keep the Myachi still on that hand. Circle around fully on the Illusion and continue to rotate the hand so that it starts to do a second Illusion.
As you come around for this second pass, Vert Catch the Myachi that is still in the air so that both Myachis are on the same hand. Generally, this flourish is followed by a Daredevil with both Myachis, which can be done in a single fluid motion coming out of the Illusion. (See also Illusion, Double Illusion, Gemeni, Vert Catch, Daredevil)
see videoAtlas: A simple but challenging trap move, the Atlas is essentially a Hulk done behind the head. Begin by tossing the Myachi straight up in the air. You want to go practically straight up, as though you were going to try to catch the sack on the back of your neck.
At the last second, look down so that the Myachi is behind your head. As you do, reach up with both hands in fists and trap the Myachi between the fists. If done properly, the Myachi will be completely out of view when you catch it, so you must time the catch perfectly. (See also Hulk)
see videoA-Train: This two Myachi trick involves a series of moves in which you cross and uncross the arms. Begin with one Myachi on either hand and cross your arms with your right arm over top of the left. Start by dropping the Myachi from the right hand. Now reach back and then move your right arm below your left for the catch.
Next, do the same on the other side. Drop the Myachi from your left hand, pull your arm back and then reach below your right arm to catch the sack you just dropped. Note that the Myachis never change hands in this move. The one that begins on your right hand will remain on your right hand and the one that begins on the left hand stays on the left hand.
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Back-O-Line: A fun and difficult version of the Trampoline, the Back-O-Line is a bounce off the back of your T-shirt. Start by throwing the Myachi over your head. While it is in the air, reach behind you and grab the back of your shirt with both hands. You'll have to time the bounce blind, so when you think the Myachi is about to hit your shirt, pull it taut and upwards. If timed correctly, the Myachi will bounce off your shirt and back over your shoulder where you can catch it in a lotus position.
It is important that you grab high on your shirt as you do this move. You'll be bending your arms in a quite unnatural manner to make this work and you won't be able to pull far enough to get your shirt taut if you grab toward the hem.
You'll also want to lean way forward as you do this trick. The bend at your waist will determine the trajectory of the Myachi after it bounces, so if you haven't leaned over far enough, the Myachi will bounce straight up and it will be hard to catch without spinning around and thus robbing the move of its awesome look.
see videoBandit: A catch on the back of the hand with the arm stretched behind the head (i.e. right hand behind the neck, catching on the left side of the head). It is made difficult by the fact that at a certain point in the move, one loses sight of the Myachi and must catch it blind. Because one loses sight of both the Myachi and the hand, care must be taken to ensure that the hand is flat.
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Batman: A catch made within the folds of the T-Shirt. Begin by tossing the Myachi up so that it is close to your torso. Grab your shirt from the side with one hand and quickly fold it over the top of the Myachi, trapping it in the fold. To get out of the move, simply unfold your shirt and be prepared for the Myachi to pop out.
This move is much easier if you start with one hand already on your shirt and throw with the other hand. It can be much more difficult to toss, grab and then fold. The catch can be made easier by trying to fold at a slight diagonal. Instead of folding your shirt directly across your body, come up slightly with the corner you're holding. This will ensure that the Myachi will pop up when you try to get out of the move.
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Batman: A catch made within the folds of the T-Shirt. Begin by tossing the Myachi up so that it is close to your torso. Grab your shirt from the side with one hand and quickly fold it over the top of the Myachi, trapping it in the fold. To get out of the move, simply unfold your shirt and be prepared for the Myachi to pop out.
This move is much easier if you start with one hand already on your shirt and throw with the other hand. It can be much more difficult to toss, grab and then fold. The catch can be made easier by trying to fold at a slight diagonal. Instead of folding your shirt directly across your body, come up slightly with the corner you're holding. This will ensure that the Myachi will pop up when you try to get out of the move.
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Behind the Back: A throw in which the arm first reaches around behind the back, launching the Myachi up over the opposing shoulder. The hardest part of this trick is getting the opposing arm out of the way when throwing. This can be accomplished in one of two ways: (1) Lift the opposite arm up and throw the Myachi between the arm and body, or (2) Reach the opposite arm around the body (i.e. left hand goes to right hip to get left arm out of the way) and throw over the shoulder.
This move might be easier with the Myachi at the fingertips rather than the center of the hand. This will allow you to flick the Myachi at the end and send it upwards more than outwards. Flexibility is important to this move and less flexible players will often struggle with it. They can be encouraged to make smaller throws and try to catch it on the hand opposite the throwing hand. This trick is all about momentum, so the reach around the back and the throw should all be one fluid motion. (See also Trampoline)
Behind the Back Daredevil: Amongst the hardest common Daredevil variations, the Behind the Back Daredevil is a challenge that will test your accuracy and your flexibility. Begin with the Myachi on your strong hand. Reach behind your back and toss the Myachi so that it passes behind your neck from the weak side to the strong side. This means that if you're doing the move right handed, you'll want to toss from the left side of your neck. Then reach your arm back around to its natural position for the catch.
Much of this move will come down to how flexible your arm is. The closer your strong hand can come to your weak shoulder (while behind the back), the easier it will be to get an accurate toss. If you don't have the flexibility, you'll find it much tougher to get a solid throw that will land in a predictable spot.
This move requires an enormous amount of practice to master so be prepared to drop a lot along the way to perfecting it.
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Body Guard: One of the five basic elbow stalls, the Bodyguard is almost universally considered the toughest. This move requires a stall on the outside of your elbow, just below the tricep. Begin by tossing the Myachi a few inches in the air and quickly turn your hand downward, angling your arm like a scarecrow. Catch the Myachi as close to the elbow as possible on the back of the muscle.
Like all stalls, you'll need to absorb the impact to make the catch. For this reason, when you angle your arm for the catch, you'll want to bring your elbow slightly higher than your shoulder. This way you'll still have room to lower your arm and give with the Myachi on the catch. You can also use your legs and torso to soften the impact.
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Bottle Rocket: Begin with a Myachi on either hand. Toss the sack that is in your weak hand up and arc it slightly toward the strong hand. As soon as that Myachi reaches the peak of the throw, toss the second Myachi directly toward it. The goal is to hit one Myachi with the other and send both of them spinning back toward your hands.
Ideally, you want to hit the edges of the sacks together rather than striking center to center. To make the most of this trick you want the two Myachis to separate after the strike, though it is acceptable to catch them both on the same hand.
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Brain Freeze: This move begins with a stall on the side of the head. Pop the Myachi up, flop your head from one side to the other and catch on the opposite side of your head. As simple as this sounds, it is an exceedingly difficult move to master.
The first challenge will be getting the throw to go straight up. Be sure to separate the tossing motion from the flop of your head. Throw with the whole body, let the Myachi pop up, then move your head over. This is where the second challenge comes in. Before you flop your head all the way over, stop and glance up to the Myachi. This way you will be able to determine exactly where the Myachi will be when it comes back down. You'll still have a split second to move your head into position to make the catch.
Like all moves, you want to learn this both ways, so once you master the strong to weak side, start working on the opposite. The Brain Freeze looks best when you can go back and forth several times.
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Brooksie: To hit this move you'll need to be wearing a baseball cap. Toss the Myachi up and in toward your head. You don't want the throw to go too high but it has to go higher than the brim of your lid. Once the Myachi peaks, move your hat bill forward and glance up slightly to angle the hat bill. Catch the Myachi on the bill of your hat.
Be careful not to look down while doing this move or the Myachi will roll right off. Once you hit this move you can simply glance down and allow the Myachi to roll back into your waiting hand.
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Brontosaurus: This one is a simple and fun trap move that even a beginner can master quickly. Toss the Myachi up and make fists with both hands. One hand will point straight up so that the forearm is perpindicular to the ground. The other arm will move into a 90 degree angle (parallel to the ground). Trap the Myachi between the fist of the parallel arm and the forearm of the perpindicular arm.
This sounds far more confusing than it actually is. In its simplest form, the Brontosaurus is a trap between the fist and the forearm. To get the "Bronto" look, you'll want to trap closer to the elbow end of the forearm than the wrist.
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Be careful not to look down while doing this move or the Myachi will roll right off. Once you hit this move you can simply glance down and allow the Myachi to roll back into your waiting hand.
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Brontosaurus: This one is a simple and fun trap move that even a beginner can master quickly. Toss the Myachi up and make fists with both hands. One hand will point straight up so that the forearm is perpindicular to the ground. The other arm will move into a 90 degree angle (parallel to the ground). Trap the Myachi between the fist of the parallel arm and the forearm of the perpindicular arm.
This sounds far more confusing than it actually is. In its simplest form, the Brontosaurus is a trap between the fist and the forearm. To get the "Bronto" look, you'll want to trap closer to the elbow end of the forearm than the wrist.
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Bruce Lee: The Bruce Lee is a lightening quick combination of a Vert Drop and a Mantis. Begin by swinging the Myachi up into a Vert and the instant the centrifugal force lets go of the Myachi, bring your elbow up into Mantis position. You'll only have an instant to get this right, so move fast. Ideally you'll be catching on the Mantis before the Myachi has any real momentum on it, so it won't require much effort to absorb the impact. (See also; Vert, Mantis)
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Butterfly: The Myachi is thrown up about 12 inches. While it is in the air, both hands circle around it simultaneously in opposite directions. Once each hand has made a full circle, the Myachi is caught on the same hand that did the throwing. To execute this trick, one hand must stay slightly lower than the other so that the hands don’t collide. A controlled throw is a must. If the Myachi lands flat the trick will be much easier. It is important to separate the motion of throwing from the circular motion. Throw then go around. (See also; 360, Wolverine)
Butterfly: The Myachi is thrown up about 12 inches. While it is in the air, both hands circle around it simultaneously in opposite directions. Once each hand has made a full circle, the Myachi is caught on the same hand that did the throwing. To execute this trick, one hand must stay slightly lower than the other so that the hands don’t collide. A controlled throw is a must. If the Myachi lands flat the trick will be much easier. It is important to separate the motion of throwing from the circular motion. Throw then go around. (See also; 360, Wolverine)
Butterfly Clipper: Begin by tossing the Myachi up in front of you, taking care to keep it close to your body. As it falls, leap into the air, leading with your weak foot. Swing your weak foot over the top of the Myachi as it falls and bring your strong foot around behind the weak leg to kick the Myachi in a Clipper fashion.
Essentially, all you're doing is a Flying Clipper, but your weak leg is passing over top of the Myachi before you strike it. Remember that it isn't a true Butterfly Clipper unless you toss and then go over it with your weak leg. Many novices fool themselves into thinking they have this trick when they do an Under the Leg to a Flying Clipper. In a true Butterfly Clipper, both feet move together. (See also; Flying Clipper)
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Butterfly Stall: A staple move of advanced footbag, the Butterfly Clipper is a spectacular crowd pleaser that requires precise timing. It will also take some pretty serious practice. Begin with a low toss and quickly leap over it with your weak leg. As you do, bring your strong foot behind your weak leg in a Clipper Delay position.
You'll catch the Myachi in a Clipper Delay at about the same time that your other foot lands back on the ground. Keep in mind that if you catch first and then land, your catching foot will be jostled slightly so you'll have to take great care to ensure that the Myachi doesn't bounce off. Ideally, you want to land a second before you catch the Myachi. (See also; Clipper Delay, Butterfly Clipper)
Cap Wrap: This fun and complex series of hat tricks was first popularized in Tennessee and has since become a popular move throughout the Myachiverse. To start this trick, you'll need a baseball cap and a single Myachi. Start with your hat on backwards, so that the bill is pointing away from you. The trick itself will be done 4 steps, but as you get good at it, the various parts of the move can be done in a quick, fluid series.
1) Toss the Myachi up onto your hat. Stall it on the top of your hat, not on the bill of the hat.
2) Reach behind your head and grab the bill of your hat. You want to grab it with both hands in such a way that your thumbs are on the top of the bill and your fingers are along the bottom. Now lift your hat off your head quickly, popping the Myachi in the air. Now quickly bring your hat around, over the top of your Myachi. If you're holding it correctly, when your arms outstretch, the bill will be facing you and your hat will be upright. Catch the Myachi on the hat where the bill meets the cap.
3) Now pop the Myachi up from your hat, flip the hat halfway (so that the hat is upside down) and catch the Myachi within the bowl of your hat.
4) Continuing the motion of the flip, bring the hat back up your head, essentially reversing the motion you made as you took it off. If the move was done correctly, the Myachi will now be inside your hat, resting on top of your head.
To get out of this move, you can simply take your hat off and let the Myachi drop into your waiting hand or foot. (See also Brooksie)
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Casper: Starting with the Myachi in Lotus position but slightly off center. You'll want the Myachi to be hanging off the index finger side of your hand. Now lift your index finger and lay it over top of the Myachi so you have 3 fingers below and 1 above in a slight pinch. Toss the Myachi up and as you do, drag your index finger along the top of it to create a "barrel roll" or "kickflip" type spin. (See also Kickflip)
Cell Phone: This simple move is done by throwing the Myachi up toward your shoulder. As it lands on your shoulder, flop your head to one side and trap the Myachi between your shoulder and your cheek, much in the fashion you would use to hold a phone with no hands.
Centrifuge: This is a complex centrifugal swap that moves between both hands using a Roller-Coaster like motion. Begin in your strong hand between the 2nd and 3rd row of knuckles (the same spot you'd want the Myachi to begin a Snake or Crane). Curl your fingers in both hands and bring the Myachi together between the two. You want to be in a Hulk-like position, but with the sack trapped between the "tiger fist" portion of your hands.
Now push the Myachi into your weak hand, take your strong hand away and use centrifugal force to hold it on as you uncurl your fingers. Keeping your hands extended outward, cross your strong hand over the wrist of your weak arm and trap the Myachi between both flat hands. From here, you'll push the Myachi back into the strong hand.
To finish the move, take away your weak hand and curl your strong hand fingers up so that you can trap it back in the starting position (between the two Tiger Fists). (See also; Hulk, Roller Coaster, Snake, Crane)
Chicken Wing: A catch made on the side of the arm with the elbow bent and pointed away from the body. Begin by tossing the Myachi up and slightly to the outside of the body. Form the arm as a wing, pointing the elbow out and keeping the forearm and upper arm at the same level. Catch the Myachi as close to the elbow as possible and absorb the impact by pivoting at the shoulder and bringing the whole arm down slightly.
The most common problem in this move is a catch made too far in toward the body. These catches tend to slip in between the forearm and bicep. Ideally, the Myachi should come to rest near the tip of the elbow.
Clipper Delay: A difficult foot stall in which the Myachi is caught on the inside of the foot while the foot is resting behind the opposite leg. This trick requires a great deal of balance and flexibility. The plant leg (the foot not used to catch) will bear the entire body’s weight with the knee bent. The more the knee is bent on the plant leg, the easier it will be to properly angle the catching foot. Players who have mastered the Instep Stall will find that by beginning in an Instep Stall and then moving the foot behind the leg with the Myachi still on it, they can train their body to bend properly for the Clipper Delay. When absorbing the impact, additional cushion can be provided by further bending the knee of the plant leg. (See also; Instep Stall)
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Clipper Kick: A relatively simple move to explain, the Clipper Kick is nonetheless a serious challenge for beginning Myachi players. It is a kick done with the instep but it is done with the kicking foot behind the other leg. Cross your strong foot behind your weak leg, toss the Myachi from your hand and as it reaches your foot, bring the foot up and kick the Myachi back toward your hand.
It is far easier to kick the Myachi here than it is to kick it accurately. Be sure to bring your foot straight up and try to keep the instep flat as you do. Many players find it easier to begin by moving the foot down and then coming back up and instant before the Myachi reaches it. (See also; Instep Kick, Clipper Delay)
Clipper Kick: A relatively simple move to explain, the Clipper Kick is nonetheless a serious challenge for beginning Myachi players. It is a kick done with the instep but it is done with the kicking foot behind the other leg. Cross your strong foot behind your weak leg, toss the Myachi from your hand and as it reaches your foot, bring the foot up and kick the Myachi back toward your hand.
It is far easier to kick the Myachi here than it is to kick it accurately. Be sure to bring your foot straight up and try to keep the instep flat as you do. Many players find it easier to begin by moving the foot down and then coming back up and instant before the Myachi reaches it. (See also; Instep Kick, Clipper Delay)
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Cold Fusion: A basic hand switch that begins with both hands outstretched with the Myachi on the back of one. The hand with the Myachi on it will move under the empty hand and, with arms crossed, the Myachi is tossed up and caught on the opposing hand. The move is not completed until this hand reaches back under the other and tosses the Myachi back to the hand it started on.
Cold Fusion: A basic hand switch that begins with both hands outstretched with the Myachi on the back of one. The hand with the Myachi on it will move under the empty hand and, with arms crossed, the Myachi is tossed up and caught on the opposing hand. The move is not completed until this hand reaches back under the other and tosses the Myachi back to the hand it started on.
There are two distinct ways of doing this move. The one described above is the simplest to teach, but as a player progresses with this trick, it will take on a different form. Instead of reaching the hand under, they will toss the Myachi up, then swing their opposing hand over it and sweep in from the opposite side (i.e. right hand moving in from left side of the Myachi) to catch it. This more advanced form of the move can be done much more quickly and will develop naturally by practicing the simpler form.
The elbows should be bent while performing this move. Stiff arms cannot react as quickly and will make the move far more difficult. When reaching under and throwing, the arms should not touch. Players are often tempted to hit one arm with the other to create the force for the throw, but this will not allow them to keep the Myachi under control. A controlled throw is vital for this move. The Myachi should be kept flat as much as possible. Ideally, it should be caught in the middle of the hand, in Lotus position.
This move often confuses players at first. They may be tempted to bring the Myachi over the empty hand rather than under it, or to cross their arms but then uncross them before throwing. Care should be taken to ensure each player is utilizing proper form right away on this trick. Otherwise bad habits can develop that will be difficult to overcome in the future.
Columns Juggle: This is a common but extremely challenging 3 Myachi move. You will be juggling 3 Myachis here, but they won't be crossing paths like they would in a typical juggle (cascade pattern). In a Columns Juggle, you'll be throwing one Myachi up and down right in front of you. The other two will be thrown simultaneously and will go up and down in columns on either side of the first Myachi.
This move looks rather complicated, but it gets easier if you remind yourself that only one hand is actually juggling. Your strong hand will be throwing one Myachi (the center one) and then another (one of the outside ones) and going back and forth between the two. Your weak hand only has to worry about tossing and catching a single Myachi, but to get the look of the move correct, it should be going up and down in unison with one of the other two Myachis. (See also 3 Myachi Juggle)
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Confusion: A simple variation on the Cold Fusion that uses an extra 360 degree motion with the hand. Begin as you would a Cold Fusion, by bringing the Myachi under one hand with the other and then tossing it, but before catching on the opposite hand, that hand should swoop around the Myachi for a full circle before making the catch. Like the Cold Fusion, this move is not complete until the Myachi is thrown back to the other hand, which must also do a full circle before making the catch.
This move is essentially a combination of the Cold Fusion and the 360. Essentially, each hand does a 540 around the Myachi before making the catch. (See also; Cold Fusion, 360)
Cradle: Starting with the hand in Lotus position and the arm extended straight out in front of you, bend at the elbow and bring the Myachi back until the fingers are pointed backward and the elbow is aiming forward, then bring the Myachi back out to the original position. The Myachi should stay on the same spot in the hand throughout the move. By properly angling the hand and utilizing the centrifugal force created by the motion, you can repeat this move very quickly.
Proper form is essential on this trick. Because it is easy to do slowly even when the form is improper, many players will not immediately recognize the importance of doing this move correctly. The wrist should stay stiff throughout the motion. All of the movement should be done at the elbow. When the hand reaches back, it should be above the elbow (i.e. right hand over right elbow, not on left side of head) and the fingers should point in the opposite direction of the elbow. If this motion is not done fully, the player will not be able to control the Myachi when they attempt to do the movement quickly. Likewise, the extension of the arm should be total, with the arm completely stiff at the end and the elbow unbent.
Crane: Starting with the hand in a fist and the Myachi resting between the 2nd and 3rd row of knuckles, rotate the forearm and (right) hand in a clockwise direction. In total, the arm will make two full clockwise rotations, one over the shoulder and one under the armpit. To make this possible, the elbow must be raised up after the full rotation, when the hand is passing over the shoulder. When done properly, the Myachi will stay on the same spot on the hand throughout the motion.
This move is far more difficult to explain than it is to do. Once a player can get over the complex directions, they will find the move to be much easier than they assumed. The Myachi will often slip off near the end of the move because for a brief second, the Myachi is hidden from view behind the arm. Making players aware of that fact will aid them in paying attention to the angle of their hands when they reach that critical moment. Although the motions are identical, most players will find this move more difficult than the Snake. (See also; Snake)
Crazy Ivan: Passing the Myachi from one toe to the other by jumping up and switching feet without ever touching both feet to the ground. The toss of the Myachi can be made with the jumping motion, so it needn’t be tossed off the foot before the switch. When done properly, there is very little movement of the Myachi. It will move up and down slightly, but will not move much left or right. Instead, the feet will move inward to meet the Myachi.
This move is very tiring and thus very difficult to practice. The angle of both feet is very important. The foot that is catching the Myachi should be angled with the toe slightly upward so that the Myachi will not slide off, while the foot that is landing should be angled with the ankle slightly upward to soften the landing. Because the player must catch the Myachi and land at the same time, a soft landing is a must and can be ensured by landing on the toe and bending the knees when landing. (See also; Toe Stall)
Cross Under the Leg: Reach under the opposite leg (i.e. right hand under left leg) and toss the Myachi in the air. Then bring the arm back and the leg down before making the catch. Care should be taken to make sure that the throw goes straight up. If not, the throw will naturally launch forward, forcing the player to chase the throw. (See also; Under the Leg)
Crypto: Amongst the toughest basic foot tricks, the Crypto is an extraordinarily challenging move for beginners. The move begins with a catch on the Instep, which is then quickly moved behind the body and thrown back up from the back. The key to the move, however, is that this must all be done while in the air.
Begin by tossing the Myachi up in front of you. As it comes down, leap into the air and stall on your instep. Your other foot should go over the foot that is doing the catch. An instant before you land, toss the Myachi back up in the air so that it is coming over your shoulder for the catch. As simple as this sounds, the act of stalling a Myachi while you're in the air is extremely difficult and will take a lot of practice. (See also; Instep Stall, Step Over, Hop Over)
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Cyclops: For this move, you'll need to be wearing a pair of eye-glasses or sunglasses. Start by tossing the Myachi up, about level with the top of your head. While it's in the air, grab your glasses with both hands, pull them slightly away from your face. Allow the Myachi to fall between your face and your glasses and as it does, push your glasses back on so that the Myachi is trapped in between.
The key to this move, of course, is accurately aiming the throw. Your focus has to be on moving the glasses properly, so without a perfect throw this move will be extremely difficult.
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Daredevil: A pass from one hand to the other that goes behind the head and is tossed and caught without looking at the hands. This move requires a combination of perfect tossing and catching as well as a great deal of practice. It is far easier to pass quickly than to arc the throw. A toss straight across will be more difficult to absorb, but it will be easier to catch because its path will be more predictable.
When learning this trick, the player should begin with an easier version where they watch their throwing hand and then look over in time to see the catching hand. This will help them to see what corrections they must make to their throws. Next, they should progress to a version in which they watch only their catching hand and finally a version in which they watch only their throwing hand.
Most players will find it easier if both hands move together during both the throw and the catch. This will help to ensure that both hands are in the same position and that the Myachi will go directly across. It will also help them learn to do this move ambidextrously.
Daring Slingshot: Start by catching the Myachi in a Slingshot in your strong arm. Now extend both arms so that the elbows are facing out. Release the Slinshot so that it travels behing your head and catch in the opposite Slingshot. Like all Daredevil variations, this move must be done blind. You can't look at the Myachi as you're throwing or as you're catching.
To make this move easier, you'll want to ensure that you're getting a straight toss. The more arc you have on the Myachi, the harder this move will be. Also, be sure to drop the catching elbow to your side as you squeeze the Myachi in. Despite the fact that you're finishing with a trap, it will still help to absorb the impact of the Myachi. (see also; Slingshot, Daredevil)
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Dark Slide: Beginning in a Mantis, extend the arm outward, causing the Myachi to slide down the forearm. Time this slide so that the Myachi reaches the back of the hand as the arm reaches full extension. This move will be far easier with the Myachi moving on a bare arm.
The tendency is to allow the Myachi to slide off the forearm at the pinky side of the wrist. To counteract that, the player can start with the Myachi on the pinky side of the forearm, slightly off center in the Mantis position. (See also; Mantis)
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Diamond: A stall on the crossed arm, this move is often mistakenly referred to as a portal move, though it is technically a high body stall. Begin by tossing the Myachi up from lotus position. While it rises, follow the Myachi up with your hands. Cross the arms slightly below the wrists and extend your fingers so that they touch. In so doing, you'll be creating a diamond shaped space between the backs of your hands and part of your forearm. Stall the Myachi in the crook between your arms (the low corner of the diamond).
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Double Dragon: This is a two Myachi variation on the Snake, done as a mirror move. Start with a Myachi on either hand and then do two simultaneous Snakes, one on either hand. You'll find as you're learning this that it is far easier if you pay close attention to your weak hand. Your strong hand should be able to do the move without looking (if not, you're probably not ready for the Double Dragon). By focusing on the weak hand, you'll forestall the most likely drops. (see also Snake)
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Double Illusion: Done like an illusion, but adding a 360 degree rotation of the hand before sweeping it out of the way to make the catch. This move takes slightly longer than an Illusion and thus the Myachi can be thrown a bit higher to counteract this, but it can’t be thrown much higher without inhibiting the hand from going over it. Because of this, the hand must move much more quickly than it did in the regular Illusion. (See also; Illusion, Mirage)
Double Mirage: Done like a Mirage, but adding a 360 degree rotation of the hand before sweeping it out of the way to make the catch. This move takes slightly longer than a Mirage and thus the Myachi can be thrown a bit higher to counteract this, but it can’t be thrown much higher without inhibiting the hand from going over it. Because of this, the hand must move much more quickly than it did in the regular Mirage. (See also; Mirage, Illusion)
Double Popper: This trick is what's considered a mirror-move, in that both sides of your body will be doing the same thing. Start with a Myachi on either hand and toss them both back toward the respective elbows simultaneously. As they reach your elbows, straighten your arms out and pop the Myachis back toward the hand they started on.
When first learning this move, you might find it easier if you keep your focus straight ahead rather than watching one or the other Myachi. By looking straight, you can keep track of both Myachis in your peripheral vision. (See also; Popper)
Double Wolverine: Toss the Myachi up 12 to 18 inches. While it is in the air, both hands move around it twice. Assuming a right handed player, first the left hand goes completely around in a clockwise direction and then the right hand moves around it counterclockwise. In a continuous motion, bring the both the left hand and the right hand around again before making the catch with the right hand. Essentially, this move is a combination of the Double Illusion and the 720 being done at the same time.
Care should be taken to ensure that the hands do not collide together. Players who try to move both hands in the same direction will quickly find their arms colliding during the move. To be a true Double Wolverine, both hands must go all the way over and under the Myachi on both rotations. If the Myachi is thrown too high this will not be possible. (See also; Wolverine, Double Illusion, 720)
Dragon Clipper: Considered by many to be the hardest of the foot stalls, the Dragon Clipper is essentially a Clipper Delay done with the outside of the foot. This move requires an enormous amount of flexibility; so much so that many people will declare it impossible after one or two tries. Rest assured that with enough practice, this seemingly unattainable move will yield to you.
Begin as you would with a Clipper Delay. Throw the Myachi from your strong hand to the outside of your weak leg. As you do, extend your strong leg behind your weak leg, but turn your foot so that the toe is pointing backwards and the instep is facing the ground. Catch the Myachi on your outstep, remembering to use both the catching leg and the plant leg to absorb the impact.
For those who lack the flexibility to try this move right away, you might find it less daunting if you begin by essentially reversing the move. Catch on your outstep and then carry the Myachi back to the Clipper Delay position and throw it up (in front of the body) to a catch. Even this easier method will require a lot of flex, so get as close as you comfortably can and keep moving closer and closer each time you practice. (See also; Clipper Delay, Outside Stall)
Drop of Death: This move utilizes centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on your hand as you invert it. Begin with the Myachi stalled on top of the fist with the back of the fist facing out (away from you). Uncurl your fingers and flatten your hand out, but as you do, sweep your hand downward so that the Myachi does not fall off. Use a Ninja-like motion to keep the Myachi in place as you bring your hand down. At the end of this move, your fingers should be pointed backwards, your arm extended slightly behind your body and your palm facing the ground. (See also; Vert, Ninja)
Duck: Begin with a Myachi on your strong hand and toss it behind your head in an arc toward the opposite hand. Unlike a Daredevil, you can watch the Myachi in this move, both when you throw and when you catch. This move is made much easier by actually ducking under the Myachi instead of just leaving your head in one place and tossing over the top of it; hence the name. Many players will find it much easier to toss straight up, slide underneath and then make the catch at approximately the same place that you made the throw.
E
Electron: This move combines Trap tricks and Body-Crosses to create a unique and exciting pattern. It ultimately includes 4 steps which are done several times in sequence and can be done several times in a row. They all rely on the Tiger, a common variation on the Hulk.
1) Begin in a Tiger, then press the Myachi against the knuckles of the strong hand. Use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on the strong hand as you move both hands around behind the head. Trap the Myachi in a Tiger behind the head.
2) From here, push the Myachi against the knuckles of the weak hand then move both hands back in front and trap it in a Tiger in front of you (the same as the start position).
3) Now push the Myachi against the kuckles on the strong hand once again, but this time reach both hands behind the back and trap the Myachi in a Behind the Back Tiger.
4) Finally, push the Myachi against the kunckles of the weak hand and return to the original position.
1) Begin in a Tiger, then press the Myachi against the knuckles of the strong hand. Use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on the strong hand as you move both hands around behind the head. Trap the Myachi in a Tiger behind the head.
2) From here, push the Myachi against the knuckles of the weak hand then move both hands back in front and trap it in a Tiger in front of you (the same as the start position).
3) Now push the Myachi against the kuckles on the strong hand once again, but this time reach both hands behind the back and trap the Myachi in a Behind the Back Tiger.
4) Finally, push the Myachi against the kunckles of the weak hand and return to the original position.
(See also; Hulk, Tiger)
Begin by tossing the weak-hand Myachi about 6 inches in the air. While it is in the air, bring your strong hand around it in a Illusion motion, using centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place. Note that this will actually be something of an "inside-out" Illusion, since you're holding the Myachi on your wrist instead of the back of your hand.
After the strong hand passes over the weak-hand Myachi, move back across the body, but scoop the Myachi that is in the air up so that both of them are on the same wrist. Then, still using one fluid motion from the strong hand, turn the Myachis over and split them apart so that you can catch one on either hand. (See also; Wrist Vert, Split, Illusion)
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F
Faceplant: A stall on the forehead. Begin with the Myachi in Lotus position and toss up toward the forehead. As the Myachi hits your head, bend at the neck and look up so that the Myachi can settle on your head.
Note that this move is much easier if you don't throw any higher than the forehead. Rather than arcing the Myachi over your head and trying to absorb the impact it will be easier to aim and catch if you throw directly at your forehead (softly) and then lean your head back as it hits.
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Figure 4: Amongst the toughest of the common Trap moves, the Figure 4 is a trap between the sole of one foot and the inside of the knee on the opposing leg. The move gets its name from the fact that when you stand in this position, your legs make a fairly clear "4".
While you can theoretically do this move from any stall, most people find it easiest to learn if you come out of an Instep Stall or a Toe Stall. Keep the throw low and controlled and go easy on the trap or else you'll wind up kicking yourself in the knee. The biggest challenge in this move is getting back out of it, since you can't really throw the Myachi from this position. Instead, you'll have to drop it directly from the knee. For this reason, most people come out with a quick Toe Stall or Instep Stall (using the same foot that was pinching the Myachi against the knee). (See also; Instep Stall, Toe Stall)
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Fire Fountain: This is an extremely challenging variation on the Firecracker that uses three Myachis and two different splits. Begin with one Myachi on either hand and one on the instep of your strong foot. Start the move off by tossing the Myachi from your weak hand toward the instep. Before it hits, bring your instep up and kick the Myachi you just tossed, sending both it and the Myachi that was already on your foot splitting apart in a Fire Cracker. Catch one of these two on your weak hand and the other back on your instep.
Now do the same thing from your strong hand. Toss the Myachi toward your instep and kick it, again sending two Myachis in a split. Catch one back on your strong hand and the other back on your instep. To keep this move challenging, try to go back and forth from the weak hand to the strong hand and get as many kicks as possible. (See also; Instep Stall, Instep Kick, Split)
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Fist of Lightening: Start with the hand curled into a fist. The fist should be facing upward with the Myachi resting between the 1st and 2nd row of knuckles. Toss the Myachi up 6 to8 inches by pushing the arm outward. While the Myachi is in the air, punch outward and then bring the fist back, point it upward again and then catch the Myachi in the same position it was thrown from.
Note that this move is much easier if you don't throw any higher than the forehead. Rather than arcing the Myachi over your head and trying to absorb the impact it will be easier to aim and catch if you throw directly at your forehead (softly) and then lean your head back as it hits.
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Figure 4: Amongst the toughest of the common Trap moves, the Figure 4 is a trap between the sole of one foot and the inside of the knee on the opposing leg. The move gets its name from the fact that when you stand in this position, your legs make a fairly clear "4".
While you can theoretically do this move from any stall, most people find it easiest to learn if you come out of an Instep Stall or a Toe Stall. Keep the throw low and controlled and go easy on the trap or else you'll wind up kicking yourself in the knee. The biggest challenge in this move is getting back out of it, since you can't really throw the Myachi from this position. Instead, you'll have to drop it directly from the knee. For this reason, most people come out with a quick Toe Stall or Instep Stall (using the same foot that was pinching the Myachi against the knee). (See also; Instep Stall, Toe Stall)
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Fire Fountain: This is an extremely challenging variation on the Firecracker that uses three Myachis and two different splits. Begin with one Myachi on either hand and one on the instep of your strong foot. Start the move off by tossing the Myachi from your weak hand toward the instep. Before it hits, bring your instep up and kick the Myachi you just tossed, sending both it and the Myachi that was already on your foot splitting apart in a Fire Cracker. Catch one of these two on your weak hand and the other back on your instep.
Now do the same thing from your strong hand. Toss the Myachi toward your instep and kick it, again sending two Myachis in a split. Catch one back on your strong hand and the other back on your instep. To keep this move challenging, try to go back and forth from the weak hand to the strong hand and get as many kicks as possible. (See also; Instep Stall, Instep Kick, Split)
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Fist of Lightening: Start with the hand curled into a fist. The fist should be facing upward with the Myachi resting between the 1st and 2nd row of knuckles. Toss the Myachi up 6 to8 inches by pushing the arm outward. While the Myachi is in the air, punch outward and then bring the fist back, point it upward again and then catch the Myachi in the same position it was thrown from.
The catch on the fist is very difficult, offering far less surface area to catch than the Lotus position. For this reason, it is extremely important that the Myachi not be allowed to rotate on the throw. There should be two distinct motions in this trick, the toss and the punch. If those two motions bleed together, the Myachi will rotate and make the catch far more difficult.
To absorb the impact of the catch, the whole forearm must move down at the elbow. The lower the initial throw, the easier the catch will be. When first learning this move, the player should not be expected to execute a very convincing punch, but as the move is mastered, the Myachi can be thrown higher and the player can extend more fully on the punch. (See also; Fist Stall)
Fist Stall: While there are several different ways to stall a Myachi on the fist, the term "Fist Stall" refers to a stall on the top of your fist (between the first and second row of knuckles). The proper position here is the same you would use to punch upwards.
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Flow: Start with the Myachi in Lotus position on one hand. Assuming a right handed player, bend the left elbow so that the left forearm points across the body, fingers pointing right and elbow pointing left. With the Myachi on the right hand, reach to the left side of the left elbow and toss the Myachi over the left arm, catching it in Lotus position on the left hand. Now reverse the motion by bringing the right arm over the left, reaching the left hand to the right side of the right elbow and tossing the Myachi back.
This move is very similar to the cold fusion, except that the throws are made from a greater distance, making them harder to control. It is important to get the throwing hand out of the way quickly, in case the catching hand has to move back a bit to meet the Myachi. (See also; Cold Fusion)
Flying Clipper: Toss the Myachi up and slightly to one side of the body. Assuming a right handed player, toss the Myachi slightly to the left. Raise the left leg as you toss and then as the Myachi falls, leap up with the right foot, bring it under the left leg and strike the Myachi as it falls. Land on both feet and catch the Myachi back in Lotus position.
This move is all about timing and the angle of the kicking foot. If the Myachi is shooting out in front of the player, then their heel is probably too high at the moment of the kick. If it going behind them, then the players toe is probably too high. If it moves out to the left (for right-handers) then they are probably jumping too late in the toss. If it moves in toward their bodies and hits them before they land or the strike lacks power and the Myachi doesn’t fly back up, they are probably jumping too early. (See also; Instep Kick)
Flying Fish: This fun and counter-intuitive move was created, named and popularized by Monk and is still considered one of the most revolutianary moves in the game. Begin by stalling the Myachi on the upper half of your leg (about midway between your knee and your hip). Obviously, in order to do this you'll either have to raise your foot off the ground or execute the move while sitting down.
With the Myachi in position, simultaneously strike both sides of your leg with either hand. You'll be hitting the side of the leg, not the top. You won't have to strike the Myachi at all, as the shock in your muscle from the strike will send the Myachi leaping up in the air.
It is extremely hard to aim a Flying Fish so you'll have to be ready for anything when it pops up. It may go left or right, it might go high or stay low, it might spin and it might stay flat. When first learning this move, it is probably best to hold both hands in Lotus position when striking the leg so that you're prepared for the catch.
Keep in mind that the height of the pop will not be determined only by the strength of your strike. If you hurt your leg when you strike, you're striking way harder than you have to. Move the Myachi around a bit on your leg to find the "sweet spot" and then bend your knee and tuck your calf in close to the upper part of your leg. This will tense the muscle and make it far easier to get a good pop.
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Flying Guppy: Begin with the Myachi stalled on your forearm. Punch the side of your forearm with your opposite hand and the Myachi will pop up and off the forearm where you can catch it in either hand. Note that you simply need to punch the muscle near the Myachi; you won't have to hit the Myachi or the underside of the arm to get it to pop up. (See also; Flying Fish)
Flying Knee: Start by tossing the Myachi straight up in front of you. Lift your weak foot off the ground a bit to give yourself a bit of upward momentum, then leap into the air with your strong foot. Bend at the knee and bring your knee up toward the Myachi as it falls, striking it and sending it flying back into the air.
The catch might be tricky at first, as the trajectory of the Myachi will be less than predictable. As you practice, take care to make sure your hitting the Myachi with the flattest part of your knee. It will also make for an easier catch if you can keep the Myachi flat such that you won't strike one side or one corner more so than the others. (See also; Knee Pop)
Fu: This move is best taught in four steps as follows. Assuming a right handed player, start with the Myachi in Lotus position on the right hand (1) Lay the left hand over the top of the right hand, palm up, so the Myachi is pinched between the backs of both hands, then bring both hands up to the right shoulder. (2) Transfer the Myachi to the left hand then bring both hands back down with the right hand empty. (3) Lay the right hand over the left hand, palm up, again pinching the Myachi between the backs of the hands. Now bring the hands up toward the left shoulder. (4) Transfer the Myachi back to the right hand, then separate both hands and bring them back down.
Although the move sounds very complicated, once a rhythm is established, it becomes much easier. As a player learns the basic motions of the move, they will reach a point where they no longer need to bring both hands all the way together. Instead, they can make the transfer just by placing one hand on the opposing shoulder and throwing the Myachi directly to the other hand, catching it as the hand swoops back down. At this point the move can be done much faster.
The most common error in learning this move is a tendency to be indiscriminate about which shoulder the hands move up toward. To learn the move properly, the transfer to the left hand must be made at the right shoulder and the transfer to the right hand must be made at the left shoulder. Any variation on that pattern will inhibit the player from mastering the full version of the move.
G
Gemeni: A two Myachi trick where one Myachi stays on either hand while the opposing hand swings around it. Starting with one sack on each hand toss the Myachi in the weak hand up and do an Illusion over it while holding the 2nd Myachi on the hand doing the Illusion. Turn your hand thumbside up slightly as you do so to keep the Myachi from sliding off as you move.
Now to the same move on the opposing hand. Toss the Myachi you were holding up as you catch the other then do an Illusion with the other hand while holding the 1st Myachi on it. This move looks best when done as a pattern. (See also Illusion)
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Glitch in the Matrix: Start with a Myachi on either hand and then bring the strong hand up into an inverted position over top of the weak hand. Toss the weak-hand Myachi high as you do a Vert Drop with the strong hand Myachi. Before the weak-hand Myachi comes back down, catch the Myachi you Vert Dropped and toss it back to the strong hand. Vert catch this Myachi with the strong hand as you catch the Myachi you threw with your weak hand.
This move looks very similar to a Matrix Reloaded, but the key difference is that the second Myachi never touches the strong hand. It is a far easier move to do than the Matrix Reloaded since you can throw that Myachi as high as you want. A high throw will give you a lot more time for the Vert Drop and Vert Catch on the other hand. (See also; Vert, Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Matrix, Matrix Reloaded)
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Grasshopper: Begin by tossing the Myachi up into a Mantis. With the Myachi resting in Mantis position (and slightly behind the point of the elbow), punch the side of your forearm with the opposite hand. Even a light punch will provide plenty of force to pop the Myachi upward. Keep in mind that it is the shock in the muscle that will cause the Myachi to fly upwards; you don't have to hit the Myachi or toss it up with the arm. (See also; Mantis, Flying Fish)
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Gui: Toss the Myachi down toward the outside of the strong foot. As the Myachi passes the knee, bring the leg over top of the Myachi and catch it with your instep, scooping it under the leg. Toss from here back to the hand. This move requires an unusual bend on the thigh and calf so it may take a bit of practice before you can comfortably execute this move.Keep in mind that part of the Gui is the leg going over the Myachi, so tossing under the leg and catching on the instep is not a Gui.
If you find that the Myachi is moving too fast for you to get an accurate catch, try starting this move from the toe or the outstep, as this will give you more time to bring your leg over and line up your foot from the scoop. At this point it becomes very similar to a foot 360 from the outisde to the instep. (See also; Instep Stall)
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Gunsmoke: This is a fun combo that is extremely challenging if you don't have a Myachi that's really broken in. Start in a Pistoleer and then toss the Myachi up a couple of inches. While it's in the air, turn your hand up (but maintain the "gun" hand position) and catch the Myachi in a Standing Rock on the same finger.
Style points can be added by blowing the Myachi off your finger and over to the opposite hand. (See also; Pistoleer, Standing Rock)
H
Half Pipe: Swing the hand from side to side in a ‘U’ pattern, using centrifugal force to keep the Myachi from moving or sliding on the hand. Raise the hand higher and higher as you swing until the Myachi is completely sideways at the edges of the swing.
If the player attempts to do the move too quickly, the Myachi will slide off the side of the hand at the turn of the swing. The key is not speed, but rather recognizing the force of the centrifugal motion. By predicting that force, the hand can move faster and higher without disturbing the Myachi. (See also; Cradle)
Heartbeat: Starting in Lotus position with both arms across the body. The elbows should be pointed outward and both hands should be in front of the chest, each with the fingers pointed in opposite directions. The Myachi should be on the right hand, a few inches in front of the left so that the right thumb is next to the left pinky. Begin the move by turning the Myachi over 180 degrees and dropping it on to the left hand. Then bring the right hand over the left hand as you move the left hand forward. Turn the Myachi 180 degrees with the left hand and drop it into the right.
This move is simple to learn and can easily be done very quickly with only a little practice. The most common error in learning this move is the tendency of the Myachi to spin as the transfer is being made. Ideally, the Myachi should always land across the knuckles in Lotus position, but that may not always be the case when first learning. For this reason, the player must learn to correct those slight errors in rotation. Also, by moving the receiving hand forward quickly, they can put a bit of centrifugal force on the Myachi and ensure a confident catch.
Many players will accidentally do the move backwards, rolling the Myachi forward instead of backward. This is a far more difficult move to master and does not lend itself as quickly to a fast variation, so the instructor should encourage the players to first learn this method before going on to the more difficult opposite move.
Headstone: For this move, you'll have to be wearing a baseball cap and you'll need the cap turned backwards so that the bill is facing behind you. Start the trick by tossing the Myachi up and over your head, but try to keep it close. As it falls behind you, nod your head down quickly so that the bill of your hat moves upwards. Strike the Myachi with the bill of your hat and allow it to pop back over your head so that you can catch it back where you started.
Obviously, the critical part of this move is done blind. You can't see the Myachi when you make the strike, so it can be frustrating to learn. It might be easier if you enlist the help of a friend that can tell you if you're missing by an inch or by a mile. Also make sure that your hat is on tight so that the impact with the Myachi won't knock it off your head.
Heel Flip: Start with the Myachi in Lotus position but slightly further out on the fingers than normal. Ideally you'll want the Myachi lined up between your 2nd and 3rd row of knuckles. Now toss the Myachi up slightly, but as you do push your fingers up and your palm out to give the Myachi an inward "barrel roll". (See also Pop Shove It; Kick Flip)
Helix: This popular centrifugal move is hard to explain and hard to understand, but once you get the idea, the move is relatively easy to do. It is essnetially a Reverse Roller Coaster to a Roller Coaster that is done (a) sideways and (b) in one fluid motion.
Start with the Myachi on your strong hand, resting between your 2nd and 3rd row of knuckles. Bring your hand in toward you (palm facing your chest) and curl up your fingers into a Tiger Fist position. Now bring the Myachi under your arm as you would in a Snake. As soon as the Myachi passes below the arm, uncurl your fingers in a Roller Coaster movement. (See also; Snake, Roller Coaster, Reverse Roller Coaster, Tiger Fist)
Hitch Hiker: Refers to any move in which the Myachi is caught using only the thumb. A Hitch Hiker can be done on the point of the thumb like a Standing Rock or on the back of the thumb like a One Fingered Stall. Like any one finger move, a really broken in Myachi will make this move much easier to learn.
Holy Cow: This move will test both your balance and flexibility but if you have both it is a fairly easy trick to master. Begin by standing on one leg and crossing the other leg in front of it. The lower part of this leg should be parallel to the ground with the knee pointing out so that your legs make a figure 4.
Now stall the Myachi on the calf of the lifted leg. Reach behind you with your fist and punch the back of that calf allowing the shock in the muscle to pop the Myachi into the air. It will be hard to predict which way the Myachi will go when you pop it and you'll already be slightly off balance so be ready for a quick catch in any direction. (See also; Flying Fish)
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Holy Mackerel: This is a fun variation on the Flying Fish that will usually captivate an audience. Start by lifting the knee on your strong leg and balancing on the other. Toss the Myachi toward the knee and quickly get both hands into position for a Flying Fish.
The instant the Myachi hits your leg, pop both sides of your leg with either fist and allow the resulting shockwave in the muscle to pop the Myachi straight back up. In a perfect Holy Mackerel, the Myachi will be contacting the leg about as long as it would on a Knee Pop. (See also; Flying Fish, Knee Pop)
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Hop Over: Start by catching the Myachi in an Instep Stall on your strong foot. Hold the Myachi there and cross your foot slightly in front of your weak leg (your plant leg). Now, jump over the strong foot with your weak leg taking care to keep the Myachi still throughout.
The key to this move is softening the shock of your landing. The landing will usually jar the Myachi a bit and that will be plenty to knock it off the foot. To counteract this, allow your strong foot to drop slightly as you land, thus absorbing the impact from the landing.
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Horizontal Split: Among the most basic splits, this move it done by throwing two Myachis from one hand so that they split apart with one to the left and another to the right. The most common way of achieving this type of split is to start with both Myachis parallel on one hand. Toss them with a Pop-Shove It spin and the rotation will naturally push one further to the left than the other.
Horizontal Split: Among the most basic splits, this move it done by throwing two Myachis from one hand so that they split apart with one to the left and another to the right. The most common way of achieving this type of split is to start with both Myachis parallel on one hand. Toss them with a Pop-Shove It spin and the rotation will naturally push one further to the left than the other.
The catch can be made on any two body surfaces but for a true split, they must be different surfaces. If you catch both Myachis on the same surface, it indicates that they did not split apart enough. (see also; Vertical Split, Pop Shove It)
Hulk: Toss the Myachi up a few inches and form a fist with each hand. Catch the Myachi by bringing the fists together and pinching the Myachi in between them. In a proper Hulk, the Myachi is between the 1st and 2nd set of knuckles on either hand. The players should be warned not to bring their fist together too quickly to avoid a painful punch to the knuckles.
I
Illusion: Toss the Myachi up about six or eight inches. While it is in the air, the non-throwing hand loops around it, going first over it and then sweeping under it before the Myachi is caught on the same hand that threw it (i.e. right hand throws, left hand goes around the Myachi in a clockwise direction, right hand catches).
If players find this move difficult to understand, a remedial version of it can be taught first in which one begins with the hands crossed, the empty hand over the Myachi hand. Now simply toss the Myachi up, sweep the top hand under it and catch it back on the hand that threw it. Have the player do this several times, crossing the hand over top before throwing, and the natural motion of the Illusion will become obvious. (See also; Cold Fusion, 360, Mirage)
Illusion Fusion: This move combines the Illusion and the Cold Fusion in an exquisite swap pattern that looks spectacular once it can be done with a little speed. Starting with the Myachi on your weak hand, toss it up, do an Illusion with the strong hand and then catch it back on the weak hand. Now toss it up again, but this time do a Cold Fusion and catch it on your strong hand. To finish the pattern, simply reverse this motion doing an Illusion with the weak hand and then doing another Cold Fusion switch.
Altogether, then, this move is (for a right handed player); Illusion Right, Left to Right Cold Fusion, Illusion Left, Right to Left Cold Fusion. (See also; Cold Fusion, Illusion)
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Impossible: In this move, you spin a Myachi around one finger and catch it back on the back of your hand. Generally, the Myachi will actually make 1 and a half spins on the way around. Start with the Myachi on the back of the hand so that it is hanging about 1/4th of an inch over your index finger. Make sure that the Myachi is all the way on the fingers; if it resting on the first set of knuckles it will not spin correctly. Now swing your hand into a Halfpipe motion.
As you reach the peak of your Halfpipe (on the thumb side of the hand), curl all your fingers into a fist except the index finger. Allow the momentum of the Myachi to carry it around the finger and once it has made a full spin, extend your other fingers for the catch. (See also; Halfpipe)
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Infinite Under the Leg: There are a few different ways to do an Infinite Under the Leg, but here we will only concern ourselves with the most common method. Start by doing an Under the Leg, but toss back across the leg and don't let your foot drop back to the ground. Catch the Myachi back on the hand you threw with and (without planting your foot) reach back under your leg and toss again.
The goal in this move is to do as many Under the Legs as possible without touching your foot to the ground again. There are numerous variations that also include Under the Leg catches and hand switches. As long as you are doing continuous Under the Legs without planting your foot, you're doing an Infinite Under the Leg. (See also; Under the Leg, Under the Leg Catch)
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Infusion: This move is essentially a swap trick that uses an infinite series of Mirages to create a hypnotic pattern. Starting with the Myachi in your weak hand, toss it up a few inches. While it's in the air, you'll be making an apostrophe shaped motion with the strong hand before catching on the strong hand. This is essentially a Mirage, except that instead of catching on the same hand you threw with, you'll be swapping to the other hand. Once you catch on your strong hand, start the move over, this time doing the Mirage motion with your weak hand. (See also; Mirage, Cold Fusion)
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In-Spin: Toss the Myachi up in the air and rotate your entire body 360 degrees, then come to a stop and catch the Myachi. For this move, you will want to utilize a high throw, at least four or five feet in the air. This will allow plenty of time to spin, stop, find the Myachi and then catch it.
In-Spin: Toss the Myachi up in the air and rotate your entire body 360 degrees, then come to a stop and catch the Myachi. For this move, you will want to utilize a high throw, at least four or five feet in the air. This will allow plenty of time to spin, stop, find the Myachi and then catch it.
It is very important to separate these five motions in the move. (1) Toss the Myachi straight up. If it varies from straight up at all, it will be extremely difficult to find in time to catch it after the spin. Before spinning, take time to see that it is going straight up. The spin will not take very long, so it is far more important to check your toss first. (2) Rotate quickly on the ball of one foot. You want to spin around exactly one time and if you overshoot or under shoot that goal, your hand will not be in place to catch the Myachi. (3) Stop spinning before trying to catch the Myachi. It is very important that you consciously stop your spin. (4) Look up and try to locate the Myachi before extending your hand. If you watched it before spinning, you should have a pretty good idea of where it is going to be. (5) Extend your hand and catch. Remember that a high toss requires a shorter absorbing motion, so keep your catch short and fast, bringing your hand down only a few inches.
Practicing this move can be difficult as it makes you dizzy after a few tries. Players should be warned not to push themselves too hard to learn this trick. After a few tries, they should take a moment with some other tricks before going back to the In-Spin.
Instep 360: Start with an Instep Stall then toss the Myachi about 18 inches up in front of you. While it's in the air, bring your foot over the top of it in a circular motion. After orbiting the Myachi all the way, catch it back on the Instep to finish the move. This move requires a lot of speed and flexibility and should only be attempted after you've all but mastered the Instep Stall and the Toe 360.
Obviously, there are two ways you could go around the Myachi. You could start by moving your foot forward, in which case you'll be making the catch from behind the Myachi or you could start by moving your foot back, in which case you'll be scooping the Myachi from the front. Most people find it easiest to catch from the toe side of the foot, but you'll do best to try this move both ways before settling on which you find easier. (See also; Instep Stall, 360, Toe 360)
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Instep Firecracker: This move will require two Myachis. You'll start with one on your strong hand and the other on the Instep of your strong foot. Toss the Myachi from your hand down toward the waiting foot. An instant before the Myachi reaches your foot, kick it. The kicking motion will knock the Myachi you just tossed back up in the air and at the same time it will release the Myachi that was stalled on your foot. The end result is that both Myachis split apart from one another such that one can be caught on either hand. (See also; Instep Stall, Instep Kick)
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Instep Juggle: Start with one Myachi on your Instep and another on your hand. Toss the Myachi from the hand to the Instep and before it lands, toss the 2nd Myachi from the Instep straight up in the air. Now catch the first Myachi on your Instep and toss it back up in the air before the 2nd one lands. Catch the 2nd one on the Instep while the 1st is (back) in the air and toss it up before the 1st one lands. Keep this juggling motion going as long as you can.
This move is extraordinarily difficult. It will take a lot of practice to keep the throws from the instep going straight up, but if they move to the left or the right by more than a couple of inches it will be almost impossible to continue the juggle. When you first learn this move, start by trying for one exchange (throw from the hand, from the foot and then catch back on the hand and back on the foot) and once you've got that mastered go for 2 exchanges, then 3 and 4. Also, try to keep the Myachis rotating in a circle in front of you so that they won't collide while they're in the air. (See also; Instep Stall, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Instep Kick: Toss the Myachi straight up in front of you and as it falls, bring your leg up and strike the Myachi with the inside of your foot, then catch it back in Lotus position as the Myachi flies back up. Timing is the essence of this move. If the kick comes too early, the Myachi will not fly up high enough to catch and if the kick comes too late it will fly off to one side or the other and be difficult to catch.
Ideally, the kick should be made with the foot brought slightly above the opposite knee. Bending the knee of the plant leg will offer the player more control of the kick. Care should be taken to keep the Myachi flat when it is thrown, as rotations on the Myachi will make it very difficult to kick properly.
Instep Stall: A catch on the instep of the foot. Toss the Myachi up so it comes down across the center of the body. The knee should be bent and the foot should be well off the ground before the Myachi comes down. Absorb the impact of the Myachi by bending the knee of the plant leg, as well as by bringing the catching foot down slightly.
Bending the foot in the proper manner to execute an instep stall might prove difficult to some players. By bending the knee of the plant leg, the angle of the foot should be easier to achieve. Ideally, the player should have their weight on the toe of the plant foot. This way the heel can come down to further absorb the impact. This will also reinforce proper form when the player starts learning to move from one foot stall to the other. (See also; Toe Stall, Outside Foot Stall)
In Wing: A stall on the inside of the elbow. Toss the Myachi up from one hand then bend your arm and point the elbow out to the side of your body. Now lean to your side (whichever side you have your arm extending from) and turn your elbow down and in. As weird as this sounds, it is a rather simple move if you've got the flexibility for it. Just make a Wing with your arm and reverse it (so that if you're using your right arm, your right elbow will be pointed toward your left side). (See also; Chicken Wing)
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Jedi: This move is simple to explain and very difficult to master. Essentially, it is a two Myachi version of the Daredevil where throws and catches are made on both hands simultaneously. Begin with a Myachi in lotus position on either hand. Extend both hands outward and hold them so that your hand is slightly behind your head (but your fingers are still pointing outward).Now toss both Myachis at the same time so that they cross paths behind your head. Catch the one from your strong hand on your weak hand and the one from your weak hand on your strong hand. This entire move must be done blind for it to be a true Jedi.
The less you arc the throws, the easier it will ultimately be. Snapping the Myachi straight across will seem harder at first, but it will provide a much more accurate throw and, when you get used to it, make for a much more consistent catch. It is also important that the two Myachis don't hit, so try to throw one slightly higher and the other slightly lower. (See also; Daredevil)
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Jiffy Pop: Begin with two Myachis on your strong hand, one out on the fingers and one closer to the wrist. Toss them both at the same time into a Vertical Split (the more they split the better). As the Myachis come back down, pop each of them off your elbow with a Popper, one after the other. Try to catch one on either hand to finish the move. (See also; Vertical Split, Popper)
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Jim Carrey: This move is something of a challenge and is more for laughs than skills so few Myachi players ever truly master it. Start with one Myachi on either hand. The first should be thrown straight up and trapped between the chin and the chest as you would for a Pez Dispenser. Now, while still holding the first Myachi in this chin-pinch, toss the second Myachi into a Faceplant. There is no way to do this move without making a funny face, hence the name. (See also; Pez Dispenser, Faceplant)
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Juggling Split: This move intimidates a lot of players because it is a 3 Myachi move and has the word "juggle" in the name, but it is actually pretty easy to hit (though it can be very difficult to master). Start with two Myachis on the strong hand and one on the weak. Toss the 2 Myachis from the strong hand in a Horizontal Split and then catch one on either hand. If you do this correctly, you will now have one Myachi on your strong hand (the one you just caught) and two on your weak hand (the one you just caught + the one that was already there).
Now do a second Horizontal Split from the weak hand and catch one of the Myachis on either hand once again. This will leave you in the same position you started in; one Myachi on the weak hand and two on the strong hand. You can keep this move going for quite some time and it is actually a relatively easy way to start learning 3 Myachi moves and juggles. (See also; Horizontal Split)
Jump Rope: In this move, you will begin and end with the Myachi in a strong footed Toe Stall. Start by stalling the Myachi on your foot and then lace your fingers together in front of you creating a loop with your arms. Now toss the Myachi up a few feet and swing your arms under it like a jump rope. Catch back on the same toe you started on.
The key to this trick is controlling the throw. If the Myachi goes too high it will be hard to jump rope under it without hitting it with your shoulders, chest or head. If it doesnt' go high enough it will be difficult to get your hands under it at all. Remember, this move only counts if the portal stays intact so if you have to unlace your fingers to make room for the Myachi, you're not doing a true Jump Rope.
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Kelly Slater: Start with a Toe Stall on your strong foot then toss the Myachi up and behind your head as you would in a Daredevil. Catch the Myachi blind with your weak hand. Note that in this move it is perfectly acceptable to watch the Myachi as you throw it. When you're first learning this move, aim the Myachi at the edge of your neck and keep your fingers wide for the catch. As you get better, try to move the catch further and further away from your neck. (See also; Toe Stall, Daredevil)
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Kick-Flip: Start with the Myachi in Lotus position but slightly further out toward the fignertips than normal. Ideally you'll want your Myachi in between your 2nd and 3rd row of knucles. Now toss the Myachi up but as you do, curl your fingers up to give it a "barrel roll" spin. (See also, Pop Shove It; Heel Flip)
Kick Split: Start with two Myachis, both on the back of the same hand. You can orient the Myachis any way that you want. Toss them up so that they fall together and then bring your foot up to kick them. When you do, the Myachis will split apart so that you can catch one on either hand.
Obviously, this move can be done in a number of ways. You can kick with the Instep, Outstep or Toe and by orienting the Myachis in different ways (parallel or crossed, for example) you can initiate different types of split. (See also, Side Kick, Instep Kick)
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Knee Pop: Toss the Myachi up and slightly to one side of the body. Bring the knee up as the Myachi falls and strike it with the flat part of the knee, sending it back up in the air, and then catch it back in Lotus position. The essence of this move is timing. The knee must be moving up and meet the Myachi as it is moving down. The more precisely the move is timed, the higher the Myachi can be popped.
Knee Pop: Toss the Myachi up and slightly to one side of the body. Bring the knee up as the Myachi falls and strike it with the flat part of the knee, sending it back up in the air, and then catch it back in Lotus position. The essence of this move is timing. The knee must be moving up and meet the Myachi as it is moving down. The more precisely the move is timed, the higher the Myachi can be popped.
Players should be discouraged from hard strikes on this move. It is far more important to maintain control of the Myachi than it is to send it several feet in the air. An ideal Knee Pop will send the Myachi straight up 12 to 18 inches and it will fall directly back toward the knee. If this move is executed to perfection, several knee pops can be done back to back.
For players that find the timing of this move difficult, it may be easier to start with the knee raised a bit before the toss and bring it up only slightly right before the Myachi hits the knee. (See also; Instep Kick)
Lotus: Toss the Myachi up a few inches, directly in front of you. Now bring the forearms together and catch the Myachi by squeezing it between the wrists. The hands should be bent outward so that both palms form a line parallel to the ground. It is important to remember when learning this move not to use the palm at all. The Myachi should be touching only the wrists. (See also; Hulk)
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M-80: Start with two Myachis in a one-handed juggle. During the Juggle, toss one Myachi high (Myachi 1). Catch the other Myachi (Myachi 2) and make a fist, then quickly bring your fist up toward Myachi 1. Strike Myachi 1 as it falls and as you do, both Myachis will split apart, allowing you to catch one in either hand. (See also; Two Myachi Juggle, Firecracker)
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Mantis: A catch made on the upper arm with the elbow raised and the forearm bent back over the bicep. Toss the Myachi up about 8 to 12 inches and immediately bring the elbow up and fold your arm back so that the palm is over the shoulder. The forearm should be flat or angled so that the elbow is slightly higher than the hand. Catch the Myachi near the elbow and absorb the impact by both bringing the elbow down slightly and bending the knees to bring the entire body down.
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Mantis: A catch made on the upper arm with the elbow raised and the forearm bent back over the bicep. Toss the Myachi up about 8 to 12 inches and immediately bring the elbow up and fold your arm back so that the palm is over the shoulder. The forearm should be flat or angled so that the elbow is slightly higher than the hand. Catch the Myachi near the elbow and absorb the impact by both bringing the elbow down slightly and bending the knees to bring the entire body down.
The key to this trick is the toss. The toss should only go as high as absolutely necessary to get the Myachi to the elbow. If the catch is made at the peak of the toss, the Myachi will have gained no downward momentum and will require little effort to absorb. The higher the throw, the more difficult the move will be. The player should also be careful not to tip the arm left or right. Identify the flattest part of the forearm and rotate the arm so that that part of the arm is up.
Mantis Attack: A strike made with the upper arm while the elbow is raised and the forearm is bent back over the bicep. Toss the Myachi up 12 to 18 inches, then raise the elbow up quickly and strike the Myachi as it comes back down. After the Myachi pops back up, bring the arm back down and catch in Lotus position. Take care to keep the toss flat, as this will minimize spin after the strike, making the strike much easier to control. (See also; Mantis)
Mantis 360: Starting in Mantis position, toss the Myachi up a couple of inches. While it is in the air, circle around it with the tip of your elbow while keeping your arm in Mantis position. Once you've completely orbited the Myachi, catch it back where it started.
Keep in mind that a very low throw is required. If you throw more than two or three inches in the air it will be very difficult to get your elbow over the top of it as you circle. It is also important that you control the spin on the Myachi. You should either throw it with no spin at all or insure that it circles once in a propeller motion. This will allow the Myachi to roll downward and come to rest just as your elbow finishes its circle. (See also; Mantis, 360)
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Matrix: The classic two Myachi exchange. Start with one Myachi on either hand. Now do a Vert with the strong hand, but as you do, bring your strong hand over top of your weak hand in a sharp diagonal across the body. Let the Myachi drop from your strong hand and at the same instant, toss the Myachi up from your weak hand.
You'll have to catch the two Myachis almost in unison. The one you dropped from the strong hand will fall easily into the weak hand. The one you threw from your weak hand will have to be scooped up by the strong hand in a Vert Catch. It is important that the two Myachis don't strike one another while they're in the air, so make sure one is closer to your body and the other further, giving each Myachi a clear trajectory.
While most players find this move easier if the Vert Drop and Vert Catch are done with the strong hand, others prefer using the weak hand for this part of the move. The other hand (the one not doing the Verts) will be essentially doing a quick juggle in the middle of this move and for some, this is the harder part of the move. Be sure to try the move both ways and see what works best for you. (See also; Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Matrix Rebooted: This is an extremely challenging variation and to hit it, you'll have to have your Matrix and your basic footstalls perfected.
Start with two Myachis, one on either hand. Now toss the week handed Myachi into a stall on your strong foot. You can use any footstall but it is probably best to use either the Instep Stall or the Toe Stall, depending on which you're more confident with. From here, do a Vert Drop with your strong hand, angling your hand so that the Myachi will be dropping toward the foot you just stalled on.
As the Myachi drops, toss the sack on your foot straight up and catch the Myachi that's falling in the same spot (Instep or Toe). Now Vert Catch the Myachi you threw from the foot to finish the move. (See also; Instep Stall, Toe Stall, Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Matrix)
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Matrix Reloaded: An extraordinarily difficult move, the Matrix Reloaded is one of the most popular moves in the game. Before attempting this move, you should be sure that you have the Matrix mastered.
Essentially, the Matrix Reloaded adds a single juggling exchange to the Matrix. Where you would normally do a Vert Drop, Juggle, Vert Catch (the first Myachi is Vert dropped, the two are juggled by the low hand and then the second Myachi is Vert caught), you will now do a Vert Drop, Juggle, Juggle, Vert Catch. The second Myachi will still impact your high hand, but instead of doing a Vert Catch, it will simply give a bit and drop the Myachi back toward the hand that threw it.
At this point, the Myachi that was originally Vert dropped will have to be caught and then thrown back to the high hand. When this Myachi comes back up, you'll Vert Catch it with the high hand so that by the end of the move both Myachis are still on the hands they started on. Remember that it isn't a Matrix Reloaded unless both Myachis impact both hands on each exchange. (See also; Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Matrix, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Matrix Revolutions: Begin with a Myachi on either hand. Do a Vert Drop with the strong hand and angle it so that the Myachi is going to drop directly onto your weak hand. As it drops, toss the other Myachi up and Vert Catch it in a traditional Matrix. As you make the catch, however, you'll allow your hand to keep rotating around beyond flat. Turn it pinky up and keep going until the Myachi drops off your hand as you twist beyond perpindicular to the ground.
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Matrix Reloaded: An extraordinarily difficult move, the Matrix Reloaded is one of the most popular moves in the game. Before attempting this move, you should be sure that you have the Matrix mastered.
Essentially, the Matrix Reloaded adds a single juggling exchange to the Matrix. Where you would normally do a Vert Drop, Juggle, Vert Catch (the first Myachi is Vert dropped, the two are juggled by the low hand and then the second Myachi is Vert caught), you will now do a Vert Drop, Juggle, Juggle, Vert Catch. The second Myachi will still impact your high hand, but instead of doing a Vert Catch, it will simply give a bit and drop the Myachi back toward the hand that threw it.
At this point, the Myachi that was originally Vert dropped will have to be caught and then thrown back to the high hand. When this Myachi comes back up, you'll Vert Catch it with the high hand so that by the end of the move both Myachis are still on the hands they started on. Remember that it isn't a Matrix Reloaded unless both Myachis impact both hands on each exchange. (See also; Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Matrix, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Matrix Revolutions: Begin with a Myachi on either hand. Do a Vert Drop with the strong hand and angle it so that the Myachi is going to drop directly onto your weak hand. As it drops, toss the other Myachi up and Vert Catch it in a traditional Matrix. As you make the catch, however, you'll allow your hand to keep rotating around beyond flat. Turn it pinky up and keep going until the Myachi drops off your hand as you twist beyond perpindicular to the ground.
When the Myachi drops from your strong hand, toss the Myachi that is now in your weak hand up, catch the one that just dropped and, as you do, quickly turn your hand over to make another Vert Catch with the Myachi that you just tossed.
The key to this move is exaggerating the rotating motion of the hand doing the Vert Catches. Bringing the Myachi around in a large circle gives it a distinct look that looks better and better the more times in a row you can do it. (See also; Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Matrix)
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Matrix Unleashed: Considered by many to be the quintessential Myachi hand-trick, the Matrix Unleashed is extraordinarily difficult to learn. You'll have to be 100% with your Matrix and close to the same accuracy with your Matrix Reloaded.
Essentially, this is an extended version of the Matrix Reloaded. You simply do a Matrix Reloaded, but instead of Vert Catching the Myachi at the end, you continue to exchange the two sacks. You won't exactly be Vert Catching the Myachis on the high end, but you will be using that hand to absorb the impact and aim the Myachi on the way back down.
This move is basically a Two Myachi Juggle, except that one hand stays over top of the juggle and connects with each Myachi as it reaches the peak of the throw. Learn it one catch at a time, seeking first to master three exchanges, then four, then five and more. Eventually you'll reach a point where the motion clicks with your muscle memory and you'll be able to do a dozen or more exchanges before Vert Catching your way out. (See also; Matrix, Matrix Reloaded, Two Myachi Juggle)
Melon Shove-It: Toss the Myachi up toward the forehead. An instant before it impacts, nod your head forward and down a bit, striking the Myachi and sending it back to the waiting hand. This move is often done several times in a row in quick succession.
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Melon Stall: Toss the Myachi up and catch it at the top of the head. To absorb the impact bend at the knees and bring the whole body down so that the Myachi can stop completely. This move is made easier by carefully controlling the height of the throw. The goal should be to catch the Myachi at the peak of its arc so that it has not yet begun its downward motion when the catch is made. The closer the catch is to the peak of the toss, the slower the Myachi will be going when it hits the head
Coming out of this move can often be as difficult as getting into it. By jumping slightly, one can put enough momentum on the Myachi to send it back to the hand, but most players will find it easier to widen their fingers and bow down, catching the Myachi as it slides off.
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Mind Grind: Start by stalling the Myachi on your temple. You'll want it resting in the middle of the side of your head, slightly in front of and above your ear. Obviously, you'll need to have your head leaned completely to one side.
The goal in this move is to move the Myachi from one side of the head to the other without actually tossing it. You want it to slide (or Grind) over the top of your head and then come to rest on the other side. To accomplish this, you'll need to use a throwing motion, but it has to be too weak to actually lift the Myachi off the head. You just need to get a bit of a push upwards and then lean your head over slowly, allowing gravity to do most of the work.
The hardest part will be getting the Myachi to stall out at the desired spot. It is remarkably easy to put too much momentum on it, causing it to continue to slide down the opposite side of the head and onto the floor. The key is finding the proper balance so that you have enough energy to make it but not so much that you lose control.
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Mirage: Toss the Myachi up about six or eight inches. While it is in the air, the non-throwing hand loops around it, going first under it and then sweeping over it before the Myachi is caught on the same hand that threw it (i.e. right hand throws, left hand goes around the Myachi in a counter-clockwise direction, right hand catches). It is not important to circle quickly, as the hand can still sweep over the Myachi after it has been caught. (See also; Cold Fusion, 360, Illusion)
Mojo Rising: Start by catching the Myachi high on your back, then jump and spin in one fluid motion. The jump will cause the Myachi to pop up in the air and a full 360 degree spin will put you in a perfect position to catch it in your waiting hand.
The key to this move is in the catch. If the Myachi is too low on your back it won't achieve enough height on the jump to allow you to catch it. For this reason, you'll want to catch as high on your back as possible; so much so that the Myachi is essentially resting on your neck. Throw straight up and duck under the Myachi at the last second, throwing your shoulders back a bit so that the Myachi won't roll off.
As you spin, make sure to get your head around quickly. You'll need a split second to locate the Myachi before you go for the catch. Remember to duck low as you land since the lower your hand is, the more likely it is that you'll have time to catch the Myachi.
The key to this move is in the catch. If the Myachi is too low on your back it won't achieve enough height on the jump to allow you to catch it. For this reason, you'll want to catch as high on your back as possible; so much so that the Myachi is essentially resting on your neck. Throw straight up and duck under the Myachi at the last second, throwing your shoulders back a bit so that the Myachi won't roll off.
As you spin, make sure to get your head around quickly. You'll need a split second to locate the Myachi before you go for the catch. Remember to duck low as you land since the lower your hand is, the more likely it is that you'll have time to catch the Myachi.
Morpheus: This is a two Myachi mirror version of the Wrist Vert. Start by stalling a Myachi on either wrist and then use centrifugal force to invert both Myachis at the same time. You'll want to do this move with your arms facing out on either side of your body so that when you bring your hands up they almost meet (back hand to back hand) over your head. (See also; Wrist Vert)
Muay Thai: This is a popular move combination that is relatively easy to do, though it can be tricky to control. Start by catching the Myachi in a Lotus. Bring your hands high and then quickly pull them down. As you do, release the Myachi and bring your knee up. Strike the Myachi with your knee and catch it as it comes back down. (See also; Lotus, Knee Pop)
Musketeer: Begin with the Myachi on your strong hand. Now make a fist with your weak hand and place it on your hip. In this position, you'll be creating a triangular portal between your side and your arm. The three sides of the triangle are made by (1) the side of your torso, (2) your forearm and (3) your upper arm. Now reach behind your back and toss the Myachi so that it passes through the portal. This throw must be precise, as hitting the Myachi against any part of your body will cause it to spin, fall or otherwise become far tougher to catch. (See also; Behind the Back)
MVP: This is a simple catch that comes in particularly handy when tossing back and forth over long distances. An MVP Catch is what we call it when you catch with your hand extended backwards; your elbow is facing forward and your forearm is folded over top of your bicep (in a Mantis position). Your fingers are pointing directly behind you as you catch on the back of your hand. (See also; Cradle; Mantis)
MVP Daredevil: This is perhaps the simplest version of the Daredevil. Start with the Myachi in your strong arm and then Cradle both hands back so that your elbows are facing forward and your fingertips are facing behind you. Make sure that both hands are completely behind the head. Now pass the Myachi from one hand to the other, keeping both in an MVP position. Like all Daredevil variations, this move must be done blind; you aren't allowed to look at the throw or the catch. (See also; MVP, Daredevil)
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Neo: A catch on the chest, made by bending back at the hips. Toss the Myachi toward your chest with only a slight amount of arc. As you do, bend back at the hips and throw your shoulders back so that your chest is angled back and let the Myachi come to rest in the center of your chest. In order to maintain your center of gravity, it is important to bend your knees. The further back you can comfortably bend without losing balance, the more control you will have over the move.
Ninja: An inverted catch made by swooping the hand down over the Myachi with the palm up and then pivoting the arm at the shoulder until the hand is palm down reaching behind the body. Start by tossing the Myachi up a few inches. Now turn the throwing hand over, palm up, and bring it over the top of the Myachi. Swing the hand down, carefully impacting the Myachi, and use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place as the hand comes first down and then back up with the Myachi in place.
A true Ninja requires that the arm pivot only at the shoulder. The wrist and elbow should stay locked throughout the move. A good indicator of proper form in this move is the thumb. If the move is being done correctly, from the moment that the hand impacts the Myachi until the end of the move, the thumb will be pointed in the same direction, away from the body.
A common problem in this move is an inability to control the momentum created by the catch. This will cause the Myachi to slide off the finger tips at the end of the trick. One way to combat that is to bend your fingers back as much as possible and come up a bit higher with the hand before coming to a stop. If the problem persists, try adding a toss to the end of the move so that the momentum need not be stopped. (See also; Vert Catch, Vert)
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One Handed Daredevil: Begin with the Myachi in lotus position on the strong hand. This is, obviously, the only hand you'll be using for this trick. Extend your arm to the side and throw the same way that you would for a regular Daredevil. As soon as you make the throw, reach the hand across the body and catch the Myachi as it passes behind the neck. Like all Daredevil variations, this must be done without looking at the throw or the catch.
To master this move, you'll need a slow, precise throw. The harder you throw, the less time you'll have to reach your hand around for the catch. Ideally, you want to throw the Myachi as close to your neck as possible. The closer it is to the side of the neck, the easier and more predictable the catch will be. (See also; Daredevil)
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One Handed Matrix: This is an extremely challenging move that requires fast and precise hand motions and extraordinary control of inverted Myachis. Before attempting this move, you should be sure that you've already mastered the Matrix and the Two Myachi Juggle.
Start with two Myachis on your strong hand. One should be in the middle of your hand (we'll call this one the "Rear" Myachi) and the second one should rest closer to your finger tips (we'll call this one the "Fore" Myachi). Obviously, they should not be touching. Now invert your hand quickly. Use the centrifugal force to hold both Myachis on your hand, but once it is fully inverted, curl your fingertips and bring your hand down. This will release the Fore Myachi and send it straight down.
Now quickly bring your hand back down and do a swap. The Fore Myachi will be falling, so you'll swap it out with the Rear Myachi. Catch the Fore Myachi, toss the Rear one in the air and then quickly invert your hand again, using the centrifugal force to keep the Fore Myachi on your hand. Once it's fully inverted, scoop the Rear Myachi up with your hand and do a Vert Catch. If you've done the move correctly, both Myachis will now be on the back of your hand. (See also; Matrix, Vert, Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Oompa Loompa: Although this move has been banned from official competitions, it remains a favorite among Myachi enthusiasts. With the Myachi held in place on one hand, execute a cartwheel and use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on your hand throughout the motion. This will be far easier if the leading hand (the first one to touch the ground) is the one with the Myachi on it. Be particularly careful as you stand up out of your cartwheel, as this is the most likely point for the Myachi to fall off.
The move was banned in 2005 since it can result in injury if it is done improperly, so it is not a valid call in a game like MYACH. Still, it is a spectacular move for a freestyle shred or to show off to your friends.
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Osis: A classic staple of footbag, the Osis requires an unusual flexibility on the ankle and extreme control of the foot and legs. It is essentially an Instep Stall that is carried from one side of the body to the other behind the opposite leg.
Start by tossing the Myachi to the outside of your strong leg. Assuming that to be your right leg, bring your right foot to the right side of your body and bend it so that the ankle is pointing more to the right and the toes are pointing to the left. Obviously this will be impossible to execute perfectly, so just bend as far this way as is comfortable.
Catch the Myachi on the instep of your strong foot and immediately carry it behind your weak leg. The catch should be done in a scooping fashion so that you're moving the Myachi the instant it makes contact with your foot. Bend the plant leg a bit as you bring the Myachi behind it. This will allow you to make a more potent throw once you reach the end of the move. By flicking the ankle and straightening the plant leg, you'll be able to put enough momentum on the Myachi to get the throw high enough for a confident catch. (See also; Instep Stall, Clipper Delay)
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Osis Step Over: This extremely challenging move will challenge even the more flexible and foot-favoring of Myachi players. You'll need to have your Osis down pat before this move will yield to you.
Start by tossing the Myachi in front of your strong foot. As you do, spin away from the Myachi (if you're using your right foot, you'll spin to the left) about 180 degrees. Bend the foot as you would for an Osis and catch the Myachi on your instep. Bring your foot all the way to the ground (being careful not to let the impact with the ground knock the Myachi off your foot) and continue your full body spin with the foot planted. To do so, you'll have to step over your strong leg with your weak foot.
As you finish your 360 degree spin, you'll have the Myachi on the Instep of the strong foot in front of you. Finish by tossing from the instep back to the hand. (See also; Instep Stall, Osis, Step Over)
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Outstep Stall: A catch made on the outside of the foot. Begin by tossing the Myachi up and slightly toward the outside of the body. Bring the leg up bending the knee so that the sole of the foot is pointed away from the body. Ideally, the foot should be at the same level as the knee on the opposite leg. Catch the Myachi on the widest part of the outside of the foot and absorb the impact by bringing the leg down slightly and bending the knee of the plant leg.
To master this move, you'll need a slow, precise throw. The harder you throw, the less time you'll have to reach your hand around for the catch. Ideally, you want to throw the Myachi as close to your neck as possible. The closer it is to the side of the neck, the easier and more predictable the catch will be. (See also; Daredevil)
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One Handed Matrix: This is an extremely challenging move that requires fast and precise hand motions and extraordinary control of inverted Myachis. Before attempting this move, you should be sure that you've already mastered the Matrix and the Two Myachi Juggle.
Start with two Myachis on your strong hand. One should be in the middle of your hand (we'll call this one the "Rear" Myachi) and the second one should rest closer to your finger tips (we'll call this one the "Fore" Myachi). Obviously, they should not be touching. Now invert your hand quickly. Use the centrifugal force to hold both Myachis on your hand, but once it is fully inverted, curl your fingertips and bring your hand down. This will release the Fore Myachi and send it straight down.
Now quickly bring your hand back down and do a swap. The Fore Myachi will be falling, so you'll swap it out with the Rear Myachi. Catch the Fore Myachi, toss the Rear one in the air and then quickly invert your hand again, using the centrifugal force to keep the Fore Myachi on your hand. Once it's fully inverted, scoop the Rear Myachi up with your hand and do a Vert Catch. If you've done the move correctly, both Myachis will now be on the back of your hand. (See also; Matrix, Vert, Vert Drop, Vert Catch, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Oompa Loompa: Although this move has been banned from official competitions, it remains a favorite among Myachi enthusiasts. With the Myachi held in place on one hand, execute a cartwheel and use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on your hand throughout the motion. This will be far easier if the leading hand (the first one to touch the ground) is the one with the Myachi on it. Be particularly careful as you stand up out of your cartwheel, as this is the most likely point for the Myachi to fall off.
The move was banned in 2005 since it can result in injury if it is done improperly, so it is not a valid call in a game like MYACH. Still, it is a spectacular move for a freestyle shred or to show off to your friends.
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Osis: A classic staple of footbag, the Osis requires an unusual flexibility on the ankle and extreme control of the foot and legs. It is essentially an Instep Stall that is carried from one side of the body to the other behind the opposite leg.
Start by tossing the Myachi to the outside of your strong leg. Assuming that to be your right leg, bring your right foot to the right side of your body and bend it so that the ankle is pointing more to the right and the toes are pointing to the left. Obviously this will be impossible to execute perfectly, so just bend as far this way as is comfortable.
Catch the Myachi on the instep of your strong foot and immediately carry it behind your weak leg. The catch should be done in a scooping fashion so that you're moving the Myachi the instant it makes contact with your foot. Bend the plant leg a bit as you bring the Myachi behind it. This will allow you to make a more potent throw once you reach the end of the move. By flicking the ankle and straightening the plant leg, you'll be able to put enough momentum on the Myachi to get the throw high enough for a confident catch. (See also; Instep Stall, Clipper Delay)
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Osis Step Over: This extremely challenging move will challenge even the more flexible and foot-favoring of Myachi players. You'll need to have your Osis down pat before this move will yield to you.
Start by tossing the Myachi in front of your strong foot. As you do, spin away from the Myachi (if you're using your right foot, you'll spin to the left) about 180 degrees. Bend the foot as you would for an Osis and catch the Myachi on your instep. Bring your foot all the way to the ground (being careful not to let the impact with the ground knock the Myachi off your foot) and continue your full body spin with the foot planted. To do so, you'll have to step over your strong leg with your weak foot.
As you finish your 360 degree spin, you'll have the Myachi on the Instep of the strong foot in front of you. Finish by tossing from the instep back to the hand. (See also; Instep Stall, Osis, Step Over)
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Outstep Stall: A catch made on the outside of the foot. Begin by tossing the Myachi up and slightly toward the outside of the body. Bring the leg up bending the knee so that the sole of the foot is pointed away from the body. Ideally, the foot should be at the same level as the knee on the opposite leg. Catch the Myachi on the widest part of the outside of the foot and absorb the impact by bringing the leg down slightly and bending the knee of the plant leg.
Ideally, the player should have their weight on the toe of the plant foot. This way the heel can come down to further absorb the impact. This will also reinforce proper form when the player starts learning to move from one foot stall to the other. (See also; Toe Stall, Instep Stall)
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Over Under: Start with the Myachi in lotus position and toss it about 6 to 8 inches in the air. While it is in the air, move your hand in a circle around it (counter clockwise for a right hander, clockwise for a left hander) and when your hand has completed half of the circle (and is over top of the Myachi), reverse the direction of the circle and come back to your starting position and catch the Myachi. Essentially you're doing a 360, but aborting it half way around and retracing your motion. (See also; 360)
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Parrot: A stall on the shoulder. Start by tossing the Myachi from your strong hand toward your strong shoulder. Absorb the impact by either crouching down (using the legs) or by slightly lowering the shoulder (using the arms). This move will be much easier if you keep the Myachi flat and don't throw any higher than you absolutely have to.
Many people find this move easier if they start by raising their shoulder up a few inches. This way you can absorb the impact simply by returning your shoulder to a normal upright position.
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Pendulum: Start with the Myachi stalled on the toe of your strong foot. Now swing that foot out behind you, using centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place. Swing your foot and leg as far back as you can and lean forward so that your toe is pointing upward. Now release the Myachi and allow it to fly up and over your head so that you can catch it on your head.
In truth, the move is far more difficult than the description makes it sound. It takes a lot of flexibility and a lot of practice to master. Be sure to extend your leg as far as possible at each joint. Bring your leg back at the hip until it can go no further, then bring your lower leg up at the knee until it can go no further and then bring the foot up at the ankle until it can go no further. Pointing the toe toward your head (or as close to that as you can get) will help control the Myachi and aim it properly.
When you first start learning this move, the Myachi will fly out behind you. This is because you'll be unable to put enough centrifugal force on it as you swing your leg backwards. Most people counteract this by swinging their leg slightly to the outside (right side if it's on the right foot) and tossing in a "faux pendulum" until they acquire the flexibility needed to do this move properly. (See also; Toe Stall)
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Pepe Le Pew: Toss the Myachi up and catch it in the armpit by pinching it between the inside of the bicep and the side of your chest. Keeping the throw low is the key, as you want the throw to reach its peak at about armpit height. To get out, just lift your arm and allow the Myachi to drop. The easiest catch will be with your opposite hand but with a little practice you can catch it on the same hand as the arm you're using.
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Pez Dispenser: Toss the Myachi up and trap it between your chin and your chest. Then lift your head suddenly and push the Myachi outward from your neck, much in the manner of a Pez Dispenser. This move is actually a bit harder than it sounds. Getting the chin-pinch catch can be tricky. When you make your throw, aim directly for the neck. Don't just toss the Myachi up and try to reach out with your chin to make the catch. When the Myachi hits your neck, bring your chin down quickly so that it won't have time to roll down your chest.
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Piano: This pattern contains a minimum of 4 motions but is usually done with 6 or more. It includes a series of hand switches, each of which involves a half spin (hard flip spin) of the Myachi. The key to the move and the element that makes it so visually striking is the motion of the hands during the switches. One hand will continuously go back and forth over the other in the manner of a pianist moving from a low to a high octave.
Start with the Myachi on your strong hand. Bring the weak hand over top and let it rest flat next to the strong hand. Give the Myachi half a flip and land it in the weak hand. Now bring the strong hand under the weak hand and give the Myachi another half flip back into the strong hand.
To end the pattern, simply reverse the motion. Flip the Myachi back to the weak hand, bring the strong hand over the weak hand and give it another half flip back. Most people go ahead and add at least one more set of hand switches on either side of the move to exagerate the motion.
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Pisces: Start with two Myachis, one on each hand. Stall one Myachi on each forearm (this can be done simultaneously or consecutively). To do this stall, you'll want to turn your arms palm up so you're essentially doing a Spiderman stall, but much further back on the arm.
Turn your left arm in so that it is parallel to your shoulders. Your hand should be pointing right and your elbow pointing left. Now turn your right arm in front of it so that both arms are parallel in front of you. Make fists with both hands and line your arms up so that the fists are about even with the Myachis stalled on the opposing arm.
Now simultaneously punch both forearms with the opposite fist. As you do, the shock in your muscle will cause the Myachis to pop up in the air. Quickly position your hands so that you'll be able to catch both of them. (See also; Flying Fish)
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Pinocchio: Toss the Myachi up toward your forehead and let it land between your eyes. Tilt your head back a bit as you do so that the Myachi can come to rest on your nose. This will be much tougher if you are using a newer or stiffer Myachi.
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Piranha Plant: Begin in a Tiger Trap position and then face your fists downward. Bring your hands up slightly and let go of the Myachi, putting a slight upward momentum on it but not enough to toss it over the hands. Now interlace the fingers with your hands still above the Myachi and quickly pinch it between the fingers of your extended hands. This is essentially an upside down version of the Stegosaurus, except that gravity will require you to trap the Myachi instead of simply stalling it. (See also; Tiger Trap, Stegosaurus)
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Pistoleer: This move is exceedingly easy to do if you have a really broken in Myachi. If the Myachi does not easily fold in the middle, it will be a much tougher trick to master. Begin with the Myachi in lotus position and give it a slight toss. While it is in the air, make a gun with your fingers, extending your index finger out so that it is pointing away from your body. Now let the Myachi come to rest along the top side of the finger so that it is hanging off of either side.
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Pistons: A 2 Myachi trick in which the player does alternating 360s with either hand. With one Myachi on either hand, start by tossing the right hand Myachi up a few inches and doing a 360. Before you catch the first Myachi, toss the left hand Myachi up and do a 360 with that hand as well.
The idea is to rapidly move back and forth doing 360s on either hand. Ideally you will be tossing one before you catch the other. Technically it does not matter which way your hands move for the 360s, but the move looks far better when both hands are moving in opposite directions (one clockwise and the other counter-clockwise). (See also 360)
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Popeye: Begin with the Myachi in a Tiger Fist. Now bring your hand back and use centifugal force to hold the Myachi on your hand while you swing it in a wide circle beside you. The motion is like the cartoon version of a person "winding up" for an uppercut. Make a few full circles with the Myachi and then punch upward, releasing the Myachi and letting it fly straight up in the air. Catch it as it comes back down. (See also; Tiger Fist)
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Popper: Toss the Myachi from your strong hand back toward the elbow. Bend your elbow slightly as the Myachi approaches and, an instant before it lands on the elbow, straighten your arm out and strike the Myachi with the elbow. If you do this accurately, the Myachi will pop straight up and you can catch it back on the hand. While you're learnign this move, the Myachi will often pop off to one side of the arm or the other, so be ready for anything in the catch.
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Popper Merge: Begin with a Myachi on either hand. Toss both sacks simultaneously toward the same elbow. The goal is to allow both Myachis to meet in the air slightly above the elbow. Now straighten your arm out and pop both Myachis up. If you do this correctly, the Myachis will pop back up in the air and split apart so that you can catch one on either hand. (See also; Popper)
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Pop Shove It: Named after a similar skateboarding move, the Pop Shove It is one of the easiest basic manipulations of the Myachi. This move is accomplished by throwing the Myachi in such a way as to put horizontal spin on it. This is most commonly done by turning the hand in toward the thumb as you make the throw. It can also be accomplished by dragging your knuckle or thumb-tip against the edge of the Myachi as you make the throw.
The key to this move is to completely control the spin. If the Myachi is spinning on multiple axis, you aren't doing a Pop Shove It. The Myachi should stay flat and only spin "helicoptor" style when you do this trick.
Pteradon: Start with two Myachis resting on the strong hand, both arranged parallel to one another. One should be out toward the finger tips and the other should be closer to the wrist. Toss both sacks in a Vertical Split so that one goes about eye level and the other goes slightly higher, about 6 inches over the top of your head.
Now bring your strong arm up quickly. Bend your arm back at the elbow and insert your forearm between the two Myachis. This will allow you to catch the low Myachi in a Slingshot and the high Myachi (a split second later) in a Mantis. (See also; Vertical Split, Mantis, Slingshot)
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Pterodactyl: Begin with two Myachis on the strong hand. Make sure that the two Myachis are not touching and that there are a few inches of space between them. Now toss them in a Vertical Split and bring both hands together, palm to palm. Your weak hand should be on top (palm facing down) and your strong hand should be underneath (palm facing up)
While the Myachis are in the air, insert your hands in the space between them. Allow the higher Myachi to come to rest on the weak hand and split your hands apart so that you can catch the lower Myachi in a Ninja. At the end of the scooping Ninja motion, toss the Myachi in a high arc over the head and catch it on the weak hand along with the first Myachi. (See also; Vertical Split, Ninja, Rainbow)
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Punisher: A move in which you hold the Myachi on your wrist while punching outward and inverting the Myachi. Begin by catching in a Spiderman but ball up your fist. Now punch outward quickly, rotating your fist as you do. Use centrifugal force to keep the Myachi from falling as you bring your hand back to the original position.
To ensure that the Myachi doesn't slide toward your palm you might want to bend your fist down just a bit when you're first learning this move. It also help to move your arm up as you punch out (from level with the hip to level with the shoudler) and down as you bring your fist in. (See also Spiderman; Spiderman Vert)
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Rainbow: Starting with the Myachi in lotus position, extend both arms out from your body. Toss the Myachi in a high arc over your head and catch it in the weak hand. This move can be remarkably easy, but ideally you will learn to do it with your arms fully extended, which makes it a beautiful punctuation move in the middle of a shred.
Rave: Start with the Myachi on the strong hand. Now cross your wrists so that your right hand is on the left and your left hand is on the right. Your strong hand should be crossing underneath your weak hand and the fingers of both hands should be pointing forward.
Now toss the Myachi up slightly and rotate your hands so that your fingers point up, back, down and then out again. Do this in a manner that keeps your wrists together and your hands crossed throughout. After you've made a full rotation, catch the Myachi on the weak hand. Now toss it up once again, repeat the motion and catch it on the strong hand.
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Raven: Start with the Myachi in lotus position on the strong hand. Now cross your wrists so that your right hand is on the left side with the fingers pointing left and your left hand is on the right side with the fingers pointing right. You should have your strong hand in front of your weak hand (the weak wrist should be between you and the strong wrist).
Now toss the Myachi up and back toward the other hand in a low arc. While it is in the air, quickly transfer your hands, but keep your wrists together. Point your fingers upward, and then bring your hands back down, but this time with the weak wrist in front of the strong wrist. Catch the Myachi on your weak hand as you do. Now reverse the motion back to your strong hand.
If you do this move correctly, your hands will move much like the wing of a bird, giving this move its name. The lower you can keep the throws, the more impressive this move will be.
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Reverse Behind the Back: A catch made with the hand crossed behind the back. Start by tossing the Myachi up slightly and toward the opposing hip (i.e. right hand tosses toward left hip). Quickly reach the throwing hand behind the back and turn your body so that the hand can reach outside the opposing hip to make the catch. Rotating the shoulders is vital to allowing the body to bend properly to execute this trick. Rotate away from the Myachi, but keep you head pointed straight so that you can keep your eyes on the Myachi the entire time.
This move requires a great deal of flexibility and will prove difficult for some players. Though an ideal catch uses only the back of the hand, at first, the players can be encouraged to cradle the Myachi between the hand and body by placing the pinky side of the hand against the hip and angling the thumb slightly upward. (See also; Behind the Back)
Reverse Cross Under the Leg: A catch made while the hand is underneath the opposite leg. Start by tossing the Myachi up in a 12 to 18 inch arc toward the opposite side of the body. Assuming a right handed player, throw from the right hand toward the left side of the body, so that the arc of the throw brings the Myachi down in line with the left leg. Now lift the left leg, angling it toward the right side of the body, and reach under it with the right hand and catch the Myachi on the left side of the left leg, with the hand still under the leg.
The key to this move is balance. The player’s ability to maintain their center of gravity while the hand is under the leg is crucial to proper execution of this move. If it proves difficult to bring the leg high enough to reach under, the player will find that by bending the knee of their plant leg, the move becomes much easier. (See also, Under the Leg, Reverse Under the Leg, Cross Under the Leg)
Reverse Roller Coaster: Start with the Myachi between the 2nd and 4rd row of knuckles on your strong hand. Now bring your hand back a bit, curling your fingers as you do. Now, quickly swing your arm over the top of your hand, continuing to curl the fingers into a fist. Use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place even once it goes upside down. The move ends when the knuckles are once again upright and the fist is facing your stomach with your arm above it.
This move is very difficult to learn and most people cheat the move slightly when they learn it by turning their hand to the side slightly. Remember that you're not actually doing a Reverse Roller Coaster unless the Myachi is completely upside down at a certain point. Most people find this move easier to learn if they start by doing a Roller Coaster and then try to immediately reverse the motion.(See also; Tiger Fist, Roller Coaster)
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Reverse Slash: Starting with the Myachi in Lotus position and with the hand resting at the opposing hip (i.e. right hand next to left hip), swing the hand in a high arc across the body so that the hand comes to rest at the opposite side of the body. Use the centrifugal force that you create with the motion to keep the Myachi from moving around on the hand during the motion. (See also; Half Pipe, Slash)
Reverse Step Over: Start by tossing the Myachi into a Clipper Delay on the strong foot. Now plant the leg down so that the outside of your foot is on the ground. Be careful not to angle the foot such that the Myachi will slide off. Now shift your weight to this foot and quickly step backward with the weak foot over the strong ankle. Plant the weak foot quickly and allow it to take your weight as you pop the Myachi back up from your instep. (See also; Instep Stall, Clipper Delay, Step Over)
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Reverse Under the Leg: A catch made while the hand is underneath the leg. Start by tossing the Myachi directly upward 12 to 18 inch body. Assuming a right handed player, throw from the right hand taking care to ensure that the toss will come down along the centerline of the body. Now lift the right leg and reach under it with the right hand and catch the Myachi on the left side of the right leg, with the hand still under the leg.
The key to this move is balance. The player’s ability to maintain their center of gravity while the hand is under the leg is crucial to proper execution of this move. If it proves difficult to bring the leg high enough to reach under, the player will find that by bending the knee of their plant leg, the move becomes much easier. (See also, Under the Leg, Reverse Under the Leg, Reverse Cross Under the Leg)
Roller Coaster: Start with the Myachi in a Tiger Fist. Now turn your hand inward as you would in a Snake. Keep going until your fist is facing your stomach. Now, using centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place, bring your arm up, swing the Myachi upside down and then uncurl your fingers as you bring your arm down.
When first learning this move, most people don't actually get the Myachi all the way upside down. Instead, they turn their hand over in something of a Half-Snake. You'll know that you're doing this move correctly if your thumb is pointing the exact same direction throughout the move. (See also; Tiger Fist, Snake)
When first learning this move, most people don't actually get the Myachi all the way upside down. Instead, they turn their hand over in something of a Half-Snake. You'll know that you're doing this move correctly if your thumb is pointing the exact same direction throughout the move. (See also; Tiger Fist, Snake)
Roman Candle: Start with 2 Myachis, one on either hand in lotus position. Toss each one back into a Slingshot on the respective arms (this does not need to be simultaneously). Now straighten the weak arm, tossing the Myachi from the Slingshot over toward the strong side elbow. An instant before it arrives, straighten the other arm out. This will Slingshot the strong arm Myachi upward and, at the same time, Popper the other Myachi. They should split apart, allowing you to catch one on either hand. (See also; Slingshot, Popper)
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Samurai: Start by tossing a Myachi upward and catching it in a Mantis. Now straighten out the hand and lift the elbow so that the Myachi starts sliding back up the arm toward the hand. Once it starts moving, bringing your hand up. Allow the Myachi to continue to grind toward the back of the hand as you swing your arm out and into a Ninja motion. Use centrifugal force to hold the Myachi in place as the arm turns, eventually leaving the Myachi upside down. Continue the motion with the hand until the hand is extended behind you, your fingers pointing back and the Myachi resting in Lotus position. (See also; Mantis, Ninja)
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Scorpion Strike: Starting with the Myachi resting on the wrist, bring the hand up, inverting the Myachi then swing the hand down and under the elbow. Use the momentum that this motion creates to throw the Myachi from the wrist from behind the arm so that it arcs back over the elbow. Bring the hand back to the front of the body and catch it back in Lotus position.
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Scorpion Strike: Starting with the Myachi resting on the wrist, bring the hand up, inverting the Myachi then swing the hand down and under the elbow. Use the momentum that this motion creates to throw the Myachi from the wrist from behind the arm so that it arcs back over the elbow. Bring the hand back to the front of the body and catch it back in Lotus position.
It is important to use the momentum created by the downswing to throw the Myachi, as the angle of the arm will make it very difficult to create enough force for the throw if there is a pause between the swing and the throw. Often the Myachi will go straight up rather than arcing back over the arm so the player might find themselves reaching back for the Myachi at first. While this is acceptable when first learning the move, the player should be encouraged to learn to execute this move with a catch made in front of the shoulder. (See also; Spiderman, Spiderman Vert)
720: Start by tossing the Myachi up 8 to 12 inches directly in front of you. While it is in the air, circle the throwing hand around the Myachi twice and then catch it back on the same hand that tossed it. It is important to separate the throwing motion from the circular motion. Try to keep the Myachi flat when you throw it, as a spinning Myachi might prove more difficult to catch. Remember that the hand must go completely around the Myachi, both over and under it, in both rotations for the trick to count.
This move requires a faster motion than the 360. To ensure that the player has enough time to do the move, one circle should be made as the Myachi is moving up and the second should be made while the Myachi is moving down. (See also; 360)
Shackle: This pattern consists of a minimum of 4 quick 2 Myachi swaps, but is usually done several times in a row for effect. Start with a Myachi on either hand and then execute the following four moves quickly while keeping the hands close together:
1) Do a Matrix on the strong side (strong hand goes above the weak hand).
2) Do a Two Myachi Swap
3) Do a Matrix on the weak side (weak hand goes above the strong hand).
4) Do a Two Myachi Swap
This pattern is hypnotic if it is done correctly, but each move must bleed into the next one. The effect is lost if you have to "reset" the Myachis between each swap. (See also; Matrix, Two Myachi Swap)
Shoe Snap: Start by stalling a Myachi on the toe of your strong foot. You'll want the Myachi to come to rest slightly behind the tip of your shoe so that there's at least a couple of inches of space between the Myachi and the front edge of your shoe. Place your foot on the ground.
Now step on the tip of your strong foot with your weak foot. You want your weak footed shoe (the one not holding the Myachi) to slightly overlap the strong footed shoe so that the very tip of the strong foot is underneath the weak foot.
Next, try to lift the toe of your strong foot while keeping your heel firmly on the ground. Because you're standing on it with your other foot, you'll be unable to lift your foot up, but you will put some backwards tension on the shoe itself. You're essentially "drawing the bow" here and putting some potential energy into your foot. Now slide your weak foot back until the strong foot is released.
This sudden release of energy on your strong foot will allow it to pop up (with the heel still firmly on the ground) and all the energy will be transferred to the Myachi. The end result is that though it doesn't look like your foot does much, the Myachi will pop four feet or more into the air.
SideKick: Begin by tossing the Myachi slightly to the outside of your strong foot. As it falls, bend your leg outward a bit at the hip and knee and strike the Myachi with the outside of your foot. Pop the Myachi straight up in the air and catch it back on your hand. To increase your accuracy, be sure that your foot is moving straight up when it contacts the Myachi.
Sidekick Stall: Catch the Myachi on the outside of the foot and extend the leg outward until the knee is locked. Begin by tossing the Myachi up and slightly toward the outside of the body. Bring the leg up bending the knee so that the sole of the foot is pointed away from the body. Ideally, the foot should be at the same level as the knee on the opposite leg. Catch the Myachi on the widest part of the outside of the foot and absorb the impact and then extend the leg outward, balancing the Myachi on the foot.
Ideally the legs will be at a 90 degree angle at the end of this move, but many players will find this too challenging for both their balance and flexibility. For this reason, allow the player to keep their catching foot close to the ground when they first learn the move, but encourage them to bring the foot as high as they comfortably can. (See also; Outside Foot Stall)
Slash: Starting with the Myachi in Lotus position and with the hand resting a few inches from the hip, swing the hand in a high arc across the body so that the hand comes to rest at the opposite side of the body (i.e. right hand swings from right side of body across to left side of body). Use the centrifugal force that you create with the motion to keep the Myachi from moving around on the hand during the motion. (See also; Half Pipe, Reverse Slash)
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Sleeve-O-Line: For this move, you'll have to be wearing a shirt that has sleeves. Ideally you'll want a shirt with somewhat baggy sleeves and the longer the sleeve, the easier the move will be. Begin by tossing the Myachi up in front of you. Now grab the inside of your shirt sleeve with the opposite hand (ie right sleeve grabbed with left hand). Pull the fabric taught as the Myachi descends and then bounce it back up in the air using the fabric of your sleeve. (See also; Trampoline)see video
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Slingshot: Catch the Myachi by squeezing it in the crook of the elbow between the forearm and bicep and then launch the Myachi upward by lifting the elbow and straightening up the arm. Start by tossing the Myachi back toward the elbow. This throw needs very little height and can almost be dropped as the arm is raised. Bend the elbow to a 90 degree angle before the Myachi reaches it so that the arm can be squeezed tight quickly at first impact.
When coming out of the move, the angle of the arm is very important. If the arm is angled downward, the Myachi will launch out in front and force the player to chase after it. If the arm is angled upward, the Myachi will launch out behind and be difficult to catch. If the arm is straight and the elbow is allowed to do the work, the Myachi will go straight up and be very easy to catch.
Slinshot Swap: Start by catching two Myachis in Slingshots, one in each elbow. Now straighten both arms at the same time, tossing each Myachi out of the Slingshot and across the body toward the other elbow. They will cross paths along the way, so be sure to throw one slightly further from the body than the other. This will prevent them striking along the way and making the catch almost impossible.
End the move by catching both Myachis in the opposite Slingshot. The one coming from the right elbow will be caught in the left elbow, the one coming from the left elbow will be caught in the right. This move looks best when you can mirror the motions almost perfectly, so try to throw and catch both Myachis in perfect unison. (See also; Slingshot, Two Myachi Swap)
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Slingshot 360: Begin by catching the Myachi in a Slingshot in your strong arm. Now pop the Myachi up about 12 inches and, while it is in the air, rotate your forearm around it in a 360 degree circle, then catch it back in the Slingshot. Unlike a traditional 360, the arm will circle the Myachi horizontally instead of vertically. (See also; Slingshot, 360)
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Smooth Criminal: Start with a Myachi in lotus position on your strong hand. Extend your arm out to the side and cross your ankles so that your strong leg is in front of your weak leg. Make sure that at least the toe of your strong foot is contacting the ground. Ideally you want your weight more or less evenly distributed between both legs.
Now toss the Myachi behind your head in a low arc. This will mimic the throw that you would use for a Daredevil. Once the Myachi is in the air, pivot your whole body around 180 degrees. As the Myachi is passing behind your head, you'll be turning away from it. Keep your strong hand extended so that once you reach the end of your spin, it will be in position to make the catch. Unlike a Daredevil, it is perfectly acceptable to watch the Myachi on both the throw and the catch in this move. (See also; Daredevil)
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Snake: Starting with the hand in a fist and the Myachi resting between the 2nd and 3rd row of knuckles, rotate the forearm and (right) hand in a counter-clockwise direction. In total, the arm will make two full counter-clockwise rotations, the first under the armpit and the second over the shoulder. When done properly, the Myachi will stay on the same spot on the hand throughout the motion.
This move is far more difficult to explain than it is to do. Once a player can get over the complex directions, they will find the move to be much easier than they assumed. The Myachi will often slip off near the end of the move because for a brief second, the Myachi is hidden from view behind the arm. Making players aware of that fact will aid them in paying attention to the angle of their hands when they reach that critical moment. (See also; Crane)
Sole Clipper: This is an extremely difficult foot stall that requires exemplary balance and flexibility. Start by crossing the strong leg behind the weak leg. Toss the Myachi across the body toward the outside of your weak leg. Now bend your both legs at the knee. Turn the strong foot so that the sole (bottom) of your foot is facing upward and catch the Myachi there. You'll have to use the bend in your weak leg to absorb the impact as you make the catch.
To train your leg for the flexibility (and balance) that you'll need for this move, you can try catching a Sole Stall in a more traditional manner and then try to bring your foot behind your leg while keeping the Myachi stalled on your foot. (See also; Sole Stall, Clipper Delay)
To train your leg for the flexibility (and balance) that you'll need for this move, you can try catching a Sole Stall in a more traditional manner and then try to bring your foot behind your leg while keeping the Myachi stalled on your foot. (See also; Sole Stall, Clipper Delay)
Sole Stall: Considered by most to be the hardest of the footstalls, the Sole Stall will require some serious flexibility. Start by tossing the Myachi out in front of you. Now turn your body slightly away from the Myachi and lift your strong leg. Bend at the knee slightly more than 90 degrees and try to face the sole of your foot up. Catch the Myachi on the sole of your foot. To keep the impact to a minimum (and thus keep the Myachi from bouncing off), you may have to absorb the catch by bending your plant leg. Be sure not to dip your toe as you do this move, as even the slightest angle on your foot might cause the Myachi to roll off.
Space Cowboy: Start with the Myachi on your strong hand. Now, create a portal with your left arm, bending at the elbow and placing the hand on the hip. Now bring your strong foot behind your weak leg. Toss the Myachi through the portal and catch it on the instep of the strong foot in a Clipper Delay. Now reverse the motion and toss up from the Clipper Delay, back through the portal and onto the strong hand. If this move is done correctly, the weak hand will remain on the hip throughout. (See also; Musketeer, Clipper Delay, Instep Stall)
Sparkler: Start with a Myachi on either hand. The weak hand Myachi should be in lotus position and the strong handed one should be a bit further out on the finger tips and hanging slightly over the side of the index finger. Toss the weak hand Myachi toward the strong hand and, an instant before it hits, do an Impossible with the strong hand.
The goal is to strike one Myachi with the other and send them splitting apart in a Firecracker motion. End the move by catching a Myachi on either hand. Keep in mind that unlike a typical Impossible, you'll be releasing the Myachi on your strong hand. Normally, an Impossible actually stays on your finger throughout the move, but in order to make this move look good, you'll have to allow both sacks to split apart and fly off your hand. (See also; Impossible, Firecracker)
Spiderman: A catch made on the inside of the wrist. Start by tossing the Myachi 2 or 3 inches in the air taking care to ensure that the Myachi does not spin and then turn the hand over so that the palm is facing up. Catch the Myachi on the wrist as close to the palm as possible without actually touching the palm. Bring the arm down to absorb the impact.
Players with thinner wrists will find this move far more difficult. If the wrist is not flat, the Myachi will tend to slide off of one side or the other. To counteract that, these players will have to work harder to absorb the impact.
Spiderman 360: Start by catching the Myachi on the wrist of your strong hand. Toss the Myachi up about 6 to 8 inches and while it's in the air, rotate your hand around it, orbiting the Myachi 360 degrees. Catch the Myachi back on the wrist once the circle is complete. (See also; Spiderman, 360)
Spider Under the Leg: This move is done just like a normal Under the Leg with one crucial difference. In a Spider Under the Leg, both feet must stay planted throughout the throw. So start by crouching down with a Myachi on your strong hand. Reach under the knee of your strong-side leg (right leg if you're using your right hand) and toss the Myachi straight up. (See also; Under the Leg)
Spidey Sense: Start this move by catching the Myachi on the wrist of your strong hand. Now extend both hands outward, palms up. The right hand should be pointing to the right, the left hand to the left. Toss the Myachi from the strong wrist behind the head in a low arc. Catch it on the weak hand wrist without looking at the Myachi.
This move is extremely difficult, but it will be easier to learn if you move both arms together. When you throw the Myachi, make sure that both arms make a throwing motion. When you catch, make sure both arms make a catching motion. Because of the accuracy required in this move, your catching arm will already have to be moving down to absorb the impact before the Myachi ever touches it. Remember that you can correct slightly errant throws by touch, moving your arm forward or backward a bit as you absorb the catch. (See also; Spiderman, Daredevil)
This move is extremely difficult, but it will be easier to learn if you move both arms together. When you throw the Myachi, make sure that both arms make a throwing motion. When you catch, make sure both arms make a catching motion. Because of the accuracy required in this move, your catching arm will already have to be moving down to absorb the impact before the Myachi ever touches it. Remember that you can correct slightly errant throws by touch, moving your arm forward or backward a bit as you absorb the catch. (See also; Spiderman, Daredevil)
Springboard: For this trick, you'll need to be wearing a baseball cap and ideally you'll want one with a somewhat stiff hat bill. Begin by catching the Myachi on your hat and ideally you'll want to catch well out on the bill. Rather than catching it closer to the crown of the hat (which is noticably easier), you want the Myachi to be resting near the edge of your hat bill.
Now use your weak hand to grab the back of your hat to steady it. This is extremely important, as it is easy to accidentally knock your hat off while attempting this move. With your strong hand, place two fingers on the front edge of your hat bill, taking care to insure that they are not touching the Myachi. Use your fingers to pull the hat bill down an inch or two and then let go.
The momentum that you create by pulling the hat bill down will release in an instant and it will cause the Myachi to pop off the hat in the manner of a diver leaving a diving board. Be sure to look straight ahead as you do this, since tilting your head up will cause the Myachi to pop off in the wrong direction (so that it might land behind you) and tilting your head down will cause the Myachi to roll off as you're pulling the bill with your fingers. (See also; Brooksie)
Standing Rock: This move can range from relatively easy to impossible depending on the Myachi you're using. A really broken in Myachi is a must while learning this one. Start by throwing the Myachi a couple of inches in the air. Then turn your hand, extending your index finger upwards. Catch the Myachi on the point of your finger, allowing the sack to fold over on either side.
The lower the throw, the easier this catch will be. Ideally, you want to catch the Myachi at the peak of the throw so you should try not to throw it more than a couple of inches. Keep in mind that you're really close to the palm side of the finger on this move, so be careful to keep your finger pointed straight up.
The lower the throw, the easier this catch will be. Ideally, you want to catch the Myachi at the peak of the throw so you should try not to throw it more than a couple of inches. Keep in mind that you're really close to the palm side of the finger on this move, so be careful to keep your finger pointed straight up.
Stegosaurus: Toss the Myachi up a few inches in front of you. While its in the air, interlace your fingers so that your hands create an 'X' with the fingers forming the top lines and your hands forming the bottom. Catch the Myachi in the top of the X, the spot between the back of the figners in either hand. Keep in mind that to do this move perfectly, you'll want the Myachi perpindicular to your body.
Step Over: Start tossing the Myachi into an Instep Stall on your strong foot. Cross your strong leg in front of the weak leg and then place it on the ground. Lay the outside of your foot on the ground and transfer your weight to it. Now, quickly step over the strong leg with the weak foot. Be careful as you do it to keep your strong foot level so that the Myachi doesn't slide off. At the end of the step, your strong foot will be behind you in a Clipper Delay. Now just lift your foot up, tossing the Myachi back toward your hand. (See also; Instep Stall, Clipper Delay)
Stiff Arm: Start by tossing the Myachi from your hand back toward your elbow. Allow the Myachi to come to rest on your elbow, but be sure to do so without bending your elbow at all. The arm should remain stiff throughout the move. This is a relatively easy move, but absorbing the impact of the Myachi can be tricky, since your instinct will probably be to bend your elbow in order to make the catch. To counteract this, make sure that you use your shoulder to bring the arm down. You can even start the catch with a slight upward angle to the arm so that by the time you're done giving with it, the arm is parallel to the ground. (See also; Slingshot)
Stutter: With the Myachi in Lotus position on one hand, bring the other hand over top of it so that the backs of both hands are facing. Both thumbs should be pointed in the same direction and the hands should be about 4 to 6 inches apart. Toss the Myachi up toward the top hand. When the Myachi hits the hand, absorb the impact slightly and then push the Myachi back down toward the lower hand.
When executed properly, the top hand does not hit the Myachi, but rather it absorbs and redirects it. By focusing on a soft touch with the upper hand, a rhythm can be developed with the move and it can be done many times very quickly. (See also; Fu)
Subter Fusion: The Subter Fusion is a pattern of six swaps from the right hand to the left. It is an extremely confusing move both to learn and to watch, so don't be intimidated by the convoluted description below. Keep in mind that once you get the concept of the move and try it a few times you'll fall into a rhythm and your muscle memory will make the move far easier.
Begin with the Myachi on your strong hand with your weak hand beside it. Follow the steps below and you'll wind up back in the starting position. (Note that these instructions assume you're starting on your right hand. Left handed players will want to reverse the directions)
1) Toss the Myachi up and slide your left hand between the right hand and the Myachi and catch it on the left hand.
2) Drop the Myachi from your left hand and move your left hand to the right side of your right hand. Catch back on the right hand.
3) Toss the Myachi back up and slide the left hand between the right hand and the Myachi. Catch it back on the left hand.
4) Drop the Myachi from your left hand and move your left hand to the left side of your right hand. Catch back on the right hand.
5) Move your left hand underneath your right hand. Now drop the Myachi from your right hand and slide the right hand to the left side of the left hand. Catch on your left hand.
6) Toss the Myachi up from your left hand and slide the right hand between the Myachi and the left hand. Catch on the right hand and you'll be back in the position where you started.
Just keep in mind as you do this that it is a relatively simple pattern. The left hand passes over the right hand then the right hand passes over the left hand. The key is that neither hand ever passes above the Myachi.
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Swashbuckler: This is an extremely challenging series of moves that must be learned one at a time before the combo can be mastered. Start with a Myachi on either hand. Toss the Myachi in the weak hand up about 8 to 10 inches and arc it slightly toward the strong hand. While it's in the air, do an Illusion around it (using centrifugal force to hold the Myachi on the strong hand in position). Circle around the weak-hand Myachi and then put the strong hand in position to catch the Myachi from the weak hand.
Instead of simply catching the weak-hand Myachi, make a quick juggling exchange. Toss the Myachi that is in the right hand up into a Duck as you catch the Myachi from the weak hand. With that Myachi secure, allow the second Myachi to arc behind the head and then catch it on the weak side. (See also; Illusion, Gemini, Duck, Two Myachi Juggle)
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Swordfish: Start with the Myachi on one hand in Lotus position with the other hand underneath it, meeting palm to palm. Toss the Myachi up and move both arms around it, keeping both palms together. The rotation should be done in such a way that the Myachi actually passes between both forearms in the triangle created between them and the body. Pass the Myachi through this space by quickly rotating the arms and then catch back on the same hand that tossed the Myachi with the palms still together.
It is extremely difficult to execute this move properly as the arms tend to strike the Myachi before both rotations can be made. For this reason, the players might be encouraged to begin with an easier move in which the palms needn’t touch the entire time. Instead, the player need only keep their fingertips touching as the rotations are made.
Tail Grab: Start with the Myachi in Lotus position. Lift your pinky up and lay it over top of the Myachi so that you've got 3 fingers below it and 1 above. Pinch the Myachi tightly and toss it with the index finger. The Myachi will flop over the pinky side of your hand but it the pinch keeps it in position. Now simply turn your hand back toward the thumb so that the Myachi flips back onto your hand.
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Tail Spin: Start with a Myachi on either hand. Lay the pinky of your strong hand over the edge of the Myachi as you woudl in a Tail Grab. Now toss the weak hand Myachi a few inches in the air. While it's in the air, quickly to a Tail Grab with the strong hand Myachi, swinging it underneath the strong hand and striking the Myachi that is in the air. This will put a quick and unpredictable spin on the weak-hand Myachi. Now catch that Myachi back on your weak hand as you come out of the Tail Grab. (See also; Tail Grab, Tail Whip)
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Tail Whip: Begin by tossing the Myachi up 8 to 10 inches, taking care to ensure that the Myachi is flat and not spinning. While the Myachi is in the air, tip the very edge of the Myachi with a light touch of the back of one finger, causing the Myachi to spin laterally. This move requires a very precise throw in that the slightest amount of spin at the beginning of the trick makes the move nearly impossible.
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Tail Spin: Start with a Myachi on either hand. Lay the pinky of your strong hand over the edge of the Myachi as you woudl in a Tail Grab. Now toss the weak hand Myachi a few inches in the air. While it's in the air, quickly to a Tail Grab with the strong hand Myachi, swinging it underneath the strong hand and striking the Myachi that is in the air. This will put a quick and unpredictable spin on the weak-hand Myachi. Now catch that Myachi back on your weak hand as you come out of the Tail Grab. (See also; Tail Grab, Tail Whip)
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Tail Whip: Begin by tossing the Myachi up 8 to 10 inches, taking care to ensure that the Myachi is flat and not spinning. While the Myachi is in the air, tip the very edge of the Myachi with a light touch of the back of one finger, causing the Myachi to spin laterally. This move requires a very precise throw in that the slightest amount of spin at the beginning of the trick makes the move nearly impossible.
If the Myachi is tapped too hard or too close to the center, it will be pushed forward and made impossible to catch. The key to this move is a very soft and precise tap.
Tailwhip Split: Start with two Myachis on the strong hand, one stacked on top of the other. Toss both Myachis together, carefully insuring that they don't split apart. Now extend the index finger of your strong hand and tap the edge of the two Myachis at the same time. This will cause both of them to spin horizontally (a Pop Shove It spin) and split apart. As they do, position both hands so that you can catch one Myachi on either of them. (See also; Tail Whip)
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1080: Start by tossing the Myachi up 12 to 18 inches directly in front of you. While it is in the air, circle the throwing hand around the Myachi going around it three times and then catch it back on the same hand that tossed it. It is important to separate the throwing motion from the circular motions. Try to keep the Myachi flat when you throw it, as a spinning Myachi might prove more difficult to catch. Remember that the hand must go completely around the Myachi, both over and under it, in all three rotations for the trick to count.
This move requires both a faster motion and tighter circles than either the 360 or 720. As in the 720, the first circle should be made while the Myachi is rising up. The second should be made as the Myachi reaches the peak of the toss and the third should be made as the Myachi descends. In order to get all the way around the Myachi, the player may have to follow it down a bit, bending at the knees and catching the Myachi closer to the ground.
Thinker: In this portal move, you'll begin by placing your weak hand fist against your forehead, creating a portal between your arm and head. Toss the Myachi from your strong hand, pass through that portal and catch with the same hand on the other side of the body.
The catch can be difficult because your arm will partially block your view at the end of the move. Watch the arc of the throw carefully so you can predict where it will come down. Remember that this move is done properly only if the portal stays intact throughout the move. If your weak hand moves away from your forehead to make room for the Myachi, it is not a true thinker.
Three Myachi Juggle: Juggling Myachis is extremely difficult and is usually only attempted by people who already know how to juggle using their palms. Juggling relies on the "exchange", a motion that is simultaneously a throw and a catch. This motion can be practiced solitarily; you simply need to drop hold one object and drop another into that hand. Throw the object that is already in the hand an instant before catching the other. That is the exchange. If you can do that on the back of both hands, you are ready to learn a Three Myachi Juggle.
The juggle itself is just a series of exchanges from one hand to the other. As a Myachi drops to your right hand, you quickly empty the hand (throw the Myachi that's already in it) and catch the Myachi that's coming toward it. Now you'll have a Myachi moving toward the opposite hand (which would already have another Myachi in it) so you'll have to exchange that one as well.
The trickiest part of learning the Three Myachi Juggle might be getting it started. You need to manipulate 3 Myachis, but you only have two hands to do it with. For that reason many people choose to start with one Myachi on the toe and toss that up to start the juggle. Others will start with two Myachis on one hand and do a Horizontal Split. Still others simply pinch one of the Myachis between the thumb and the side of the hand and move it into position after the first throw.
It will probably help to look at some videos on how to juggle. The bulk of the advice given in these video will apply whether you're juggling with your palms or with the back of your hands. (See also; Two Myachi Juggle)
360: Start by tossing the Myachi up 8 to 12 inches directly in front of you. While it is in the air, circle the throwing hand around the Myachi and then catch it back on the same hand that tossed it. It is important to separate the throwing motion from the circular motion. Try to keep the Myachi flat when you throw it, as a spinning Myachi might prove more difficult to catch. Remember that the hand must go completely around the Myachi, both over and under it, for the trick to count.
The key to this trick is finding the proper size for the circular motion. If the circle is too wide then it will take too long to move the hand around, but if the circle is too small then the hand is more likely to strike the Myachi as it moves, making the catch impossible.
The most common problem with this move is a failure to separate the motions of the trick. There are three distinct motions in a 360, (1) the throw, (2) the circle and (3) the catch. The more these moves are separated, the easier the move becomes. Many players will find it difficult to slow their hands back down for the catch after moving so quickly to get around the Myachi. Being conscious of the importance of slowing the hand back down will make the move far easier to learn.
Tiger Fist: A common opening to other moves, the Tiger Fist is a catch on the hand between the 2nd and 3rd row of knucles made while the hand is in a fist. This catch must be done with care, as the Myachi will land close to the palm.
Tiger Trap: A trap move in which the Myachi is held between the fists but unlike a Hulk, in this move you will use the space between the 2nd and 3rd row of knucles (the Tiger Fist) on either hand to trap the Myachi. (See also; Hulk)
Toe Kick: Toss the Myachi straight up in front of you and as it falls, bring your leg up and strike the Myachi with the toes or top part of the foot, then catch it back in Lotus position as the Myachi flies back up. Timing is the essence of this move. If the kick comes too early, the Myachi will not fly up high enough to catch and if the kick comes too late it will fly off to one side or the other and be difficult to catch.
If the knee is bent during this move, the Myachi might fly back and strike the knee making it far more difficult to catch. Players might therefore find it much easier to do if the knee is kept straight and the kick is made by flicking the toes upward with the ankle. Players that find that motion difficult can be encouraged to take greater care in ensuring that their strike goes straight up to avoid the knee. (See also; Inside Kick)
Toe Stall: A catch on the top of the foot. Toss the Myachi up so it comes down across the center of the body. The knee should be bent and the foot should be well off the ground before the Myachi comes down. Absorb the impact of the Myachi by bending the knee of the plant leg, as well as by bringing the catching foot down slightly.
The player might find this move easier if they consciously separate the motions, first dropping the Myachi, then dropping the foot. By angling the toes slightly upward, a cradle can be made with the foot and shin to make the catch a bit easier. Ideally, the player should have their weight on the toe of the plant foot. This way the heel can come down to further absorb the impact. This will also reinforce proper form when the player starts learning to move from one foot stall to the other. (See also; Instep Stall, Outside Foot Stall)
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Trampoline: Toss the Myachi directly in front of you 6 to 8 inches. While the Myachi is in the air, grab your T-shirt with both hands and pull it out in front of you. As the Myachi falls, bring the shirt up and bounce the Myachi off of it, then let go of the T-shirt and catch back in Lotus position.
To make the timing of this move easier, the player might want to grab the shirt with one hand before making the throw. This way only one hand will have to find purchase before the Myachi falls. It will be easier to execute the bounce if the T-shirt is grabbed from the middle rather than the bottom, as this will allow the player to make the fabric of the shirt taut.
It is important to properly balance the height of the throw. If the Myachi is not thrown high enough, the player will not have enough time to grab the shirt, but if it is thrown too high, the Myachi is far less likely to come straight back down close enough to the body to execute the move.
Transformer: This series of 4 traps is relatively easy to do and thus isn't particularly impressive, but because every move is a trap and because it is simple enough to register quickly in your muscle memory, you can learn to do it with incredible speed, at which time it becomes a very impressive trick.
Start in a Hulk, then push the Myachi against your right wrist (it doesn't really matter if you're right or left handed, though you can reverse these directions if you choose). Use centrifugal force to hold it against the right fist as you take your left fist away. Now raise your left hand up and trap the Myachi between the right fist and the left wrist.
Now push the Myachi against your left wrist, take the right fist away and trap the Myachi between both wrists (a Lotus). Next, push it against your right wrist, take your left wrist away, make a fist with your left hand and trap the Myachi between your left fist and right wrist. Finally, push the Myachi against your left fist, take your right wrist away, make a fist and trap the Myachi back in a Hulk.
The key to this move is the centrifugal force. Many beginners try to overcome gravity simply by moving from fist to wrist quickly, but it is much easier if you buy yourself an extra second by (a) pushing the Myachi against the other wrist/fist and (b) moving that wrist/fist back a few inches and then forward as you switch the position of the other hand. (See also; Hulk, Lotus)
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T-Rex: Start with the Myachi on your strong hand. Extend both hands out so that your arms are about parallel with the ground. The fingers of your right hand should be pointing out to the right, the fingers of your left hand should be pointing to the left.
Now lift your strong arm, pivoting at the shoulder and keeping the elbow nearly straight. Bring your hand over top of your head in a wide, sweeping arc. Use centrifugal force to keep the Myachi on your hand as you invert it, palm up. Once you've move all the way over your head, drop your strong arm hand on top of your weak hand, trapping the Myachi in between. If the arms are fully extended throughout, this move gives the impression of massive jaws closing, hence the name.
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Triceratops: This move contains a series of three head stalls and is extremely difficult to master. Start with the Myachi on one side of the head, stalled on the temple. Now toss the Myachi up from the temple, straighten your head up, tilt slightly back and look up. Catch the Myachi on your forehead (a Faceplant). Finally, toss the Myachi up from your forehead, lean your head in the opposite direction and catch it on the temple opposite the way you started. (See also; Faceplant, Brain Freeze)
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Tripod: Start with one Myachi on either hand and lift your strong foot slightly off the ground. This move requires great balance, as you'll have to stand on one leg (and the weak one at that) for an extended period. There are six throws and six catches in this move but since they will be done two at a time, there are only three steps.
1) Toss both Myachis simultaneously. The Myachi on the weak hand will move to the strong hand in a very low arc (almost a straight line) and the Myachi on the strong hand will drop to a Toe Stall.
2) Toss both Myachis simultaneously. The Myachi on the toe should go to the weak hand and the Myachi on the strong hand will drop to a Toe Stall.
3) Toss both Myachis simultaneously. The Myachi on the weak hand will move to the strong hand in the same low arc and the Myachi on the Toe will move to the weak hand.
Thus each Myachi works in a triangular pattern, one following the other. The weak hand always transfers to the strong hand, the strong hand always goes to the toe and the toe always goes to the weak hand.
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Triple Split: Start with three Myachis on one hand. The Myachis should all be parallel to one another. It's okay if the Myachis are touching, but they should not be overlapping. Now throw all three at once with a Pop Shove It spin. The spin will cause all three to fan out. One will move to the far side (and will be caught with the weak hand), one will move to the middle (and be caught with the toe) and the third will hardly move at all (and will be caught back on the strong hand that threw it).
Obviously, there are other ways to make the catch. Instead of using the toe to catch the middle Myachi, you could employ the instep, the outside of the foot or the knee. Additionally, you could challenge your self to catch one on each wing and the third in a hand in the middle. There are thousands of ways to do this move. Described above is simply the one that most people find easiest. (See also; Horizontal Split, Toe Stall)
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Tunnel: A move in which the Myachi passes through your T-Shirt as it falls. Toss the Myachi up to about eye level. Grab the neckline of your shirt and pull outward so that the Myachi can fall down into your shirt. Quickly prepare your other hand to catch the Myachi as it slides out from the bottom of your shirt.
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Turbine: Start with the Myachi on your strong hand and then bend your elbow 90 degrees so that your forearm is parallel to your shoulders (if you're on your right hand, your fingers should be pointing left, your elbow pointing right). Bend your weak arm in the same manner and hold it behind your strong arm.
Toss the Myachi up about 6 to 8 inches. While it is in the air, move both hands around it in a circle, one after the other. Your weak hand should go around first and your strong hand follows it. You'll be making 360s with both hands, but they will be perpindicular to the body (as opposed to a normal 360 where the plane of the circle is parallel to your body). (See also; 360)
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Twin Vert: Begin with two Myachis on your strong hand, one toward the finger tips and the other closer to the wrist. The two Myachis should not be touching; the further apart they are, the easier this move will be. Start the trick by tossing both sacks up in a Vertical Split.
While they are in the air, you're going to quickly Vert Catch both of them one after the other. The key is that both catches must be made with the same hand. Start with a quick Vert Catch of the lower Myachi. Bring your hand down quickly and then invert it again using centrifugal force to hold it on the catching hand. Vert Catch the second Myachi with the first one still stalled there. You'll have to move very quickly to outpace gravity on this one so it is easy to lose the centrifugal force and allow the first Myachi you caught to slip off the hand during the second catch. (See also; Vertical Split, Vert, Vert Catch)
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Two Myachi Cold Fusion: Start with one Myachi on either hand, both in Lotus position. Cross your strong hand underneath your weak hand, toss both Myachis a few inches in the air and then uncross your hands and catch them. The Myachi you threw with your right hand will land on your left hand while the Myachi you threw with your left hand will land on the right. Now bring your weak hand under your strong hand, toss both Myachis up, uncross your hands and catch the two sacks back on the hands they started on.
Like any fusion move, the goal here is to get faster and faster the more you practice this move. Make sure that you switch which hand goes under which between each catch or the move loses much of its appeal. (See also; Cold Fusion)
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Two Myachi Juggle: Start with one Myachi on either hand in lotus position. Toss the Myachi from the weak hand about 18 to 24 inches in the air. Throw it with a slight arc so that it will land closer to the strong hand.
As the first Myachi comes down, you'll do a quick "exchange". You'll toss the Myachi that is already in your strong hand up (with a very slight arc to the outside) and catch the Myachi that is already in the air in one fluid motion. Now you'll have the first Myachi secured on the back of the strong hand while the second Myachi is in the air above it. As the second Myachi peaks and comes back down, repeat the exchange by tossing the Myachi from your strong hand and catching the one that is in the air once more. Keep exchanging as long as you can.
One of the most common problems in learning this move is a tendency to hit the two Myachis together. To avoid this, you'll want to throw each one in a very narrow arc from inside to outside (if you're using your right hand you'll be throwing from slightly left of the shoulder and aiming to land it slightly right of the shoulder). If both Myachis follow this trajectory, they will pass side by side instead of running into one another.
Another common problem that plagues most neophyte jugglers is a tenency to throw each Myachi a little further from the body than the last one. This will lead to you having to stumble forward to keep catching. To combat this, be careful to make sure every throw is going up, not out.
At first, you'll only want to do a few exchanges before catching and moving on to another trick (or trying again), but as you come to master this move you'll be able to do it indefinitely. By focusing on learning this on both the strong and weak hands, you'll make it far easier to move on to the Three Myachi Juggle in the future.
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Two Myachi Swap: Start with one Myachi on either hand. Toss both sacks in low arcs toward the opposing hand. To keep them from smacking together, you'll want to keep them on seperate paths (ie one is further forward and the other further back or one is thrown slightly higher than the other). Catch each Myachi on the hand opposite the throwing hand. Ideally, you'll want to master making both throws and both catches at precisely the same time.
Tyrannosaurus Fu: This move is more of a gag than a trick, but it can be a fun challenge and will usually elicit a laugh from your audience. Start with three Myachis. One should be on each hand and the third can rest on the toe or on the shoulder. The first step in the move will be tossing the two Myachis that are on your hands into Slingshot catches. This can be done simultaneously or one at a time.
While holding the Myachis in Slingshots in both arms, transfer the third Myachi to one of your hands and do a Fu while still pinching the other two Myachis. Because your arms must stay bent at the elbow, your hands arms can't reach out very far from the body, which gives you the stubby-armed look of a Tyrannosaurus. This will make the Fu both more challenging and much funnier when you get it. (See also; Fu, Slingshot)
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U
Ultimate Fighter: Start with the Myachi on your strong hand. Lift your opposite leg (if you're on the right hand, you'll lift the left leg) and do a Cross Under the Leg. When you make the throw, make sure to throw back across the leg (toward the arm you started with). Once you've made the throw, leap up from the other leg, bend at the knee and strike the Myachi with your knee as it falls. Now land on both feet and reach out to make the catch. (See also; Knee Pop, Cross Under the Leg, Flying Knee)
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Under the Leg: Reach under the leg (i.e. right hand under right leg) and toss the Myachi in the air. Then bring the arm back and the leg down before making the catch. Care should be taken to make sure that the throw goes straight up. If not, the throw will naturally launch forward, forcing the player to chase the throw. The knee should be bent on the raised leg to make it easier to maintain balance while executing the trick.
The most common problem when learning this move is a tendency to hit the leg with the Myachi, making it spin wildly or keeping the throw from going upwards. Players who have difficulty with this move can be encouraged to start with the Myachi further out on the hand toward the fingertips so that they needn’t reach as far under the leg. It is also important to utilize the momentum created by reaching under the leg for the throw. It is far more difficult to reach under the leg, pause, and then throw. This must be balanced, of course, as too much momentum will cause the Myachi to launch out forward and force the player to chase after it to make the catch.
Under the Leg 360 (THW): Among the most difficult moves ever created "by accident", the Under the Leg 360 the Hard Way was an unintentional invention by a talented Myachi Maniac who simply misunderstood the instruction to do an "Under the Leg, 360".
Start with a Myachi on your strong hand. Lift the respective leg as high as you comfortably can then reach under the leg. Toss the Myachi a few inches and execute a 360, but do the whole move while still holding your hand under your leg. This move requires an exremely fast 360 along with exemplary balance and flexibility. (See also; Under the Leg, 360)
Under the Leg Vert: Start by tossing the Myachi directly in front of you so that it is rising and falling along the centerline of your body. Lift your leg as high as you can (right leg if you're right handed) and as the Myachi falls, reach under your leg with your hand palm up. Vert Catch the Myachi as it falls. (See also; Under the Leg, Vert Catch)
Upper Cut: Toss the Myachi up in front of you. Curl the fingers of your strong hand into a fist then make a wide circle with your hand, as though a cartoon character winding up for a punch. As the Myachi falls, bring your fist up towards it. Strike the Myachi in an upper cutting motion and then catch it back on your hand.
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V
Venus Fly Trap: In this simple trap move, you'll be pinching the Myachi between the backs of both hands. Toss the Myachi a few inches in the air and then quickly cross your arms at the wrists so that your hands make a V with the palms on the outside. As the Myachi falls, bring the backs of your hands together and trap the Myachi in between.
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Vert: Beginning with the Myachi in Lotus position, swing the arm in an upward arc toward the inside of the body, using the centrifugal force you create with the motion to keep the Myachi from moving. Swing the hand all the way over until the palm is facing up and the Myachi is completely inverted, and then swing the hand back down before the Myachi can fall off.
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Vert: Beginning with the Myachi in Lotus position, swing the arm in an upward arc toward the inside of the body, using the centrifugal force you create with the motion to keep the Myachi from moving. Swing the hand all the way over until the palm is facing up and the Myachi is completely inverted, and then swing the hand back down before the Myachi can fall off.
This move is easier to learn as an extension of the Half Pipe. By starting with the Half Pipe, the player can first get comfortable with the centrifugal force and only then swing the hand high enough to fully invert the Myachi. (See also; Half Pipe)
Vert Catch: Toss the Myachi up 4 to 6 inches. While it is in the air, turn the hand over so that the palm is facing upward and then bring the hand over top of the Myachi. Scoop the hand down at an angle, impacting the Myachi from above. Use the centrifugal force created by the motion to bring the Myachi to rest on the hand and turn the hand over with the Myachi in Lotus position.
Ideally, the hand will first impact the Myachi while the palm is up, but this will prove difficult at first. Player should be allowed to learn the move by catching it various angles, moving closer and closer to a truly inverted catch. (See also; Vert)
Vert Columns: This three Myachi move is hard even for a three Myachi move. You'll need to have your two and three Myachi juggle down before you can realistically expect to master this one. In addition, you'll need to be able to do your Two Myachi Juggle in a columns pattern. In this pattern, instead of each Myachi following the same circular inside-to-outside pattern, each Myachi will go straight up and down along separate, parallel paths.
Start with one Myachi on your weak hand and do a Two Myachi Columns Juggle with the strong hand (some people find it easier to reverse this and do the juggle with the weak hand). While juggling these two Myachis, do a Vert with the other hand. Try to match the up and down speed and positon of one of the two Myachis you're juggling as you do this.
This move is both complex and difficult but it is a spectacular looking trick and is well worth the effort. (See also; Vert, Two Myachi Juggle)
Vert Drop: The opposite of a Vert Catch, in this move you'll start with the Myachi in your strong hand. Bring your hand up in a sharp diagonal using centrifugal force to keep the Myachi on your hand as it turns upside down. Bring your weak hand in underneath it and simply wait for the centrifugal force to wear off. Push your hand down slightly to direct the Myachi as it falls into your waiting hand. (See also; Vert)
Vert Swap: Start with the Myachi on your strong hand. Do a full Vert with the strong hand and as you do, mirror the motion with your weak hand (which will be empty). Move both hands so that they meet pinky to pinky above your head. As they meet, allow the Myachi to slide from the back of the strong hand to the back of the weak hand. Once it has transferred, bring both hands back down. Now reverse the motion, doing the Vert with the weak hand and letting it slide back to the strong hand.
The swap itself will actually be done while the hands are upside down. Many players find it easier to move the hands than the Myachi so if you're having trouble getting the Myachi to grind from one hand to the other, simply shift your hands over slightly once you reach the full inversion. (See also; Vert, Vert Catch)
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Vertical Split: This is among the most common splits in the game. The Vertical Split is done by tossing two Myachis from one surface in such a way as to send one higher up than the other. The easiest way to do this is to begin with both Myachis parallel and not touching on the back of your strong hand.
Toss the Myachis with a scooping motion, pointing your fingertips at an upward angle as you throw. If you do it correctly, both Myachis will launch from your hand. The forward most Myachi will go high and the wrist side Myachi will go much lower. Finish by catching the Myachis on any two surfaces. (See also; Horizontal Split)
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W
Wave: This move is really nothing more than an infinite Vert Catch, though the pattern looks cool enough that this variation actually earned a name. Simply toss the Myachi up a couple of inches with the strong hand. Now turn the strong hand over and Vert Catch from above. As you turn your hand over with the Myachi on it, allow the motion to continue so that you toss the Myachi back up a few inches without it ever coming to rest.
Simply continue to Vert Catch and then slightly toss the Myachi. This move is done all on one hand and can be done infinitely with a bit of practice. (See also; Vert Catch)
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Wavy Gravy: One of the most popular and yet most randomly constructed combos of all time, the Wavy Gravy has been a staple series of Myachi tricks for more than a decade.
Begin by catching the Myachi in a Spiderman on the strong wrist. Do a quick Wrist Vert, return your hand to a normal position and then do a Lateral Wrist Vert (also known as a Cross Over Dribble). This is essentially the same as a Wrist Vert except that you turn your hand an extra 90 degrees (270 degrees instead of a Wrist Vert's 180). In the full extension of this move your thumb will be pointing down and your strong hand will be on the weak side of your body.
Now return your hand to a normal position, toss the Myachi up and do a Wolverine before catching and finishing this move. (See also; Spiderman, Wrist Vert, Wolverine)
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Who's Your Daddy?: For this move, you'll need a surface with a little bit of bounce. Most cushions, mattresses and upholstered chairs will have plenty of bounce, but you'll also find random objects that you can use such as inflated balls, balloons, trampolines, etc.
Start by doing a Vert from your strong hand but once the Myachi is upside down, bring your hand down quickly, dropping the Myachi down with some amount of force. Aim it at whatever you intend to bounce the Myachi off of. When it bounces up, catch it back in lotus position. (See also; Vert, Vert Drop)
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Wrist Vert: Beginning with the Myachi on the wrist, swing the arm in an upward arc away from the body, using the centrifugal force you create with the motion to keep the Myachi from moving. Swing the hand all the way over until the palm is facing down and the Myachi is completely inverted, and then swing the hand back down before the Myachi can fall off.
Players will find that with a slight pinch between the wrist and palm, they can hold this move indefinitely, but this should be discouraged, as it violates the rules of the game and makes the move far too easy to execute. (See also; Spiderman, Half Pipe, Vert)
see videoWolverine: Toss the Myachi up 12 to 18 inches. While it is in the air, both hands move around it. Assuming a right handed player, first the left hand goes completely around in a clockwise direction and then the right hand moves around it counterclockwise. The catch is made on the same hand that tossed the Myachi. Essentially, this move is a combination of the Illusion and the 360 being done one after the other.
With both hand moving at the same time, it will be difficult to move around the Myachi without striking it. Players often find themselves moving much faster than necessary to accomplish the move and the instructor should be aware of this tendency so that they can be encouraged to move more slowly. To be a true Wolverine, both hands must go all the way over and under the Myachi. If the Myachi is thrown too high this will not be possible. (See also; Illusion, 360)
XYZ
Yoga Under the Leg: Reach the hand under the leg going from the inside out (i.e. with the Myachi on the right hand, reach from the left side of the right leg toward the right side) and then toss the Myachi from this position.
This move is especially difficult for less flexible players. To make the move easier, bend the knee of the plant leg and reach the arm downward as it goes under the leg. If necessary, the player can flick the Myachi off the fingertips rather than using the momentum of the arm motion. (See also; Under the Leg, Cross Under the Leg)
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We intend to link a video to every trick eventually. If you'd like to get involved, you can help by filming an instructional video for one of the moves you don't see linked. Slap it on YouTube and email the link to aaron@myachi.com for consideration. Thanks for your help!
